C\J 
LO 


DQ 


APPROVED      METHODS 
for  HOME  LAUNDERING 

By        MARY         BEALS        VAIL 


Of  two  countries  t  with  an  equal  amount  of  population,  we 
may  declare  with  positive  certainty  that  the  wealthiest  and 
most  highly  civilized  is  that  which  consumes  the  greatest 
weight  of  soap. — LIEBIG. 


PUBLISHED  BY 
THE  PROCTER  &  GAMBLE  CO. 


<££> 


COPYRIGHT   1906 

THE  PROCTER  &  GAMBLE  CO., 

CINCINNATI, 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 


INTRODUCTORY 
VALUE  OF  LAUNDRY  WORK,        -        - 7 

PURIFIERS 

SUN,         -        - 7 

Am,      -  8 

WATER,  -  8 

CHEMICAL,  9 

MECHANICAL,  9 

STAINS 
INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  TAKING  OUT,        --....     11-15 

FABRICS 

COTTON,  16 

LINEN,  16 

WOOL,     -  ......      17 

SILK,   -  17 

SOAPS 

IVORY,  19 

LENOX,  ...  19 

P.  &  G.  NAPHTHA,  19 

SOAP  SOLUTION,     -  ...      2o 

LAUNDRY  AIDS 

STARCH,      -  21 

BLUING, ....      23 

WAX,    - 25 

REAGENTS,     ------  -      25 

EQUIPMENT  FOR  HOME  LAUNDRY 
LIST  OF  ARTICLES  NEEDED,  WITH  PRICES,  26-37 

PRACTICAL  LAUNDRY  WORK 

PLAN  OF  WEEK'S  WORK,   -  -    38-39 

ORDER  OF  DAY'S  WORK,  39-4° 

WHITE  CLOTHES,        -  -    41-56 

THICK  STARCHING,  57~6i 

CLEAR  STARCHING,  61 

COLORED  CLOTHES,  62 

HOSIERY,     -  63 

WOOL,      -       -       -  63-66 

SILK,    -  66 

LACES  AND  CURTAINS,    - 67-68 


25681 & 


PUBLISHER'S  PREFACE 

THIS    booklet  is  published  by  The  Procter  &  Gamble 
Co.,  of  Cincinnati,  Ohio. 

It  is  believed  to  be  the  most  complete  as  well  as 
the  most  reliable  publication  ever  issued  dealing  with  the 
problems  of  home  laundering. 

The  information  it  contains  is  of  value  to  experienced  as 
well  as  inexperienced  housewives. 

The  firm  of  Procter  &  Gamble  was  established  in  1837. 
The  Procter  &  Gamble  Co.  was  incorporated  in  1890.  Its 
Ivorydale,  Ohio,  plant  is  the  largest  soap  factory  in  the 
United  States.  Branch  factories  are  located  at  Kansas  City, 
Kan.,  and  at  Arlington,  Staten  Island,  N.  Y. 

Of  the  many  brands  of  soap  made  by  The  Procter  & 
Gamble  Co.,  at  least  three  are  known  from  one  end  of  the 
country  to  the  other — "Ivory,"  "Lenox"  and  "Procter  & 
Gamble  (P.  &  G.)  Naphtha  Soap." 

Each  of  these  soaps  has  a  field  of  its  own. 

Ivory  is  used  for  the  bath  and  toilet  as  well  as  for  such  other 
purposes  as  require  a  mild,  neutral  and  absolutely  pure  soap 
— a  soap  which,  because  it  contains  no  "free"  (uncom- 
bined)  alkali,  can  be  used  without  hesitation  for  cleansing 
articles  for  which  ordinary  laundry  soaps  are  unsafe  and 
unsatisfactory. 

Lenox  is  one  of  the  best  and,  at  the  same  time,  one  of  the 
cheapest  of  laundry  soaps.  It  can  be  used  for  every  pur- 
pose for  which  a  high  grade,  well  made,  laundry  soap  should 

(5) 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 


be  used.  There  are  cheaper  laundry  soaps  than  Lenox.  But 
it  does  not  pay  to  use  them.  Many  of  them  are  badly  made. 
Some  of  them  are  positively  harmful.  None  of  them  is  as 
good  as  Lenox.  For  every  day  use  around  the  house,  it  is 
without  an  equal. 

P.  &  G.  Naphtha  Soap  simplifies  the  work  of  laundering 
to  an  extent  that  is  almost  beyond  belief.  Use  it  and  you 
will  have  no  more  "  Blue  Mondays,"  no  more  hot  kitchens, 
no  more  backaches  from  bending  over  tubs  of  steaming 
water,  no  more  hard  rubbing  of  clothes  up  and  down  the 
washboard.  Time,  labor,  fuel  and  money  saved — and 
cleaner  clothes  than  you  have  ever  had  before. 


THE  VALUE  OF  LAUNDRY  WORK 
-PURIFIERS 

THE  one  great  privilege  of  rich  and  poor  alike  is  the 
possession  of  clean  clothes.  Water  is  free,  soap  is 
cheap,  and  sunshine  and  fresh  air  are  everywhere. 
For  centuries  we  have  been  training  ourselves  to  like  the 
"feel"  of  clean,  smooth  garments,  the  odor  of  freshly  laun- 
dered linen,  and  the  appearance  of  clothes  clean  and  uni- 
form in  color,  free  from  wrinkles,  and  straight  as  to  threads 
of  material.  We  may  not  have  known  that  this  very  clean- 
liness is  the  strongest  supporter  of  good  health,  but  it  is. 
The  skin  is  made  more  active  by  the  fresh  clothing,  which, 
in  turn,  absorbs  the  impurities  thrown  off  by  the  skin. 
Moreover,  clean,  boiled  clothes  never  carry  disease  germs. 

In  discussing  any  subject,  we  must  first  learn  of  the  ma- 
terials to  be  handled.  With  the  knowledge  of  these,  intel- 
ligent work  and  satisfactory  results  are  sure  to  follow.  In 
our  special  subject,  HOME  LAUNDERING,  the  information  side 
will  be  discussed  under  the  several  heads :  Purifiers,  Soil, 
Fabrics,  and  Laundry  Aids. 

Sun,  air,  and  water — Nature's  purifiers — stand  first  and 
are  indispensable.  The  sun's  rays  have  wonderful  proper- 
ties, direct  and  indirect,  in  the  form  of  heat.  Nothing  can 
compare  with  them.  Many  forms  of  minute  plant  life, 
moulds,  and  certain  bacteria,  will  not  grow  in  the  sunshine; 
and  sun  and  air,  together  with  moisture,  break  up  harmful 

(7) 


8  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

compounds,  rendering  them  harmless.  Moist  heat  at  boil- 
ing temperature  or  higher  kills  all  life  if  kept  at  that  tem- 
perature long  enough.  The  lower  the  form  of  life,  the 
longer  will  it  withstand  heat.  So,  in  order  that  clothes  may 
be  sterile,  that  is,  free  from  life,  they  must  be  boiled  at 
least  ten  minutes,  and  preferably  twenty.  Dry  heat  kept  at 
a  higher  temperature  for  a  longer  time  acts  in  the  same  way, 
but  if  not  controlled,  it  may  injure  the  fabric.  Ironing 
applies  heat  for  so  short  a  time  that  it  cannot  be  depended 
on  to  purify  clothes. 

Air,  being  one-fifth  oxygen,  aids  in  the  breaking  up  of 
harmful  compounds  and,  when  in  motion,  scatters  dirt. 

Water  is  our  chief  dirt  carrier.  When  in  motion,  water 
holds  in  suspension  particles  of  dirt,  which  float  away. 
Much  of  the  soil  of  clothes  may  be  dissolved  in  water,  or, 
by  the  aid  of  soap,  an  emulsion  is  formed  and  the  dirt  is 
carried  off. 

Friniitive  methods  of  washing  depended  almost  entirely 

upon  flowing  water  to  cleanse  clothes,  and  washing  in 
streams  is  still  the  method  of  cleansing  used  among  people 
of  simple  habits  to-day,  a  flat  stone,  upon  which  to  rub  or 
pound  the  clothes,  being  the  only  aid,  unless  soap  is  used. 

More  depends  upon  the  kind  of  water  we  have  for  laun- 
dry work  than  upon  anything  else.  Soft  water  is  best,  but 
it  may  absorb  many  things  in  its  journey  from  the  clouds. 
After  air  and  roofs  are  washed,  rain  water  may  be  stored 
for  use,  but  if  we  get  water  from  a  stream  or  lake,  it  may 
bring  with  it  particles  of  plants  or  soil.  These  may  be 
strained  out,  or  the  water  may  be  allowed  to  settle,  the 
clear  water  being  then  carefully  poured  off.  Water  which 
has  soaked  into  the  ground  and  appeared  again  in  stream, 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 


lake,  spring,  or  well,  may  have  absorbed  some  mineral 
matter  that  may  make  it  undesirable  for  laundry  purposes. 

The  most  common  mineral  found  in  water  is  lime,  which 
makes  water  hard.  Temporary  hardness  of  water  is  most 
common.  It  is  due  to  a  soluble  lime  compound  which  will 
combine  with  soap  to  form  a  greasy  scum.  To  overcome 
this  difficulty  water  should  be  boiled.  In  case  the  hardness 
is  not  removable  by  boiling  it  is  called  permanently  hard 
water.  To  overcome  this  add  lime  water  or  weak  carbonat- 
ed alkali  before  boiling.  In  softening  water  with  an  alkali, 
only  as  much  as  is  necessary  to  do  the  work  is  desirable. 
More  acts  upon  clothing  and  hands,  weakening  fabric  and 
skin.  The  larger  the  amount  and  the  greater  the  strength 
of  the  alkali,  the  worse  the  effect. 

The  alkalies  commonly  known  and  used  in  the  household 
are: 

AMMONIA,  a  gas  dissolved  in  water,  and  mild  in  its  action  if  diluted; 
it  readily  evaporates  if  heated.  It  is  comparatively  expensive. 

BORAX,  a  powder,  mild  and  expensive. 

SAI<  SODA,  OR  CARBONATED  AI^KAI,!,  a  crystal  or  powder,  stronger 
and  cheaper  than  borax. 

POTASH,  OR  LYE,  a  liquid  or  solid,  strong  but  little  used  in  modern 
times.  It  is  derived  from  wood  ashes  by  a  process  of  leeching;  is  used 
in  making  "soft  soap." 

CAUSTIC  POTASH  AND  CAUSTIC  SODA  are  very  strong  and  not 
expensive,  but  are  rarely  known  in  the  household.  One  or  the  other 
is  almost  invariably  used  in  the  manufacture  of  laundry  soaps. 

SOAP,  a  very  essential  purifier,  is  discussed  in  a  separate  chapter. 

RUBBING,  POUNDING  AND  RINSING  are  valuable  mechanical  aids 
in  purifying  clothes. 


SOIL 

THE  soil  in  clothing  may  be  of  two  kinds.  If  it  is  the 
product  of  life — organic — it  may  be  perspiration,  oily 
secretions  or  dead  skin,  food  material  or  stains,  and 
usually  bacteria  of  some  kind.  The  disease  bacteria  are  few 
in  number;  the  harmless,  helpful  kinds  are  many.  When 
organic  material  of  any  kind  begins  to  give  off  an  odor,  we 
know  that  bacteria  are  at  work.  This  is  especially  true  of 
clothes  that  have  been  next  to  the  body.  All  bacteria  can 
be  killed  by  boiling. 

Of  inorganic  soil  we  have  dust,  ground  up  rock,  which  is 
usually  mixed  with  organic  material,  and  stains. 

Stains  must  have  special  consideration.  They  will  often 
come  out  with  cold  water  alone,  and  this  should  first 
be  tried.  Stains  must  be  removed  before  the  garment  is 
washed.  They  come  out  most  easily  when  fresh  and  moist. 
Stains  will  usually  be  set,  that  is,  partake  of  the  nature  of 
dyes,  when  acted  upon  by  soap  and  heat.  To  remove  stains 
after  they  have  been  washed,  without  doing  serious  injury 
to  the  fabric,  is  almost  impossible. 

We  discussed  alkalies  in  their  relation  to  hard  water. 
Now  we  want  to  consider  acids — known  to  us  ordinarily  as 
sour- tasting  materials,  for  example,  vinegar  and  lemon  juice. 
In  removing  stains  they  are  often  used.  Acids  and  alkalies 
act  quite  differently — they  neutralize  each  other,  that  is,  one 
destroys  the  characteristic  properties  of  the  other  when  they 
are  brought  together  in  the  right  proportions.  Acids  are  of 
many  kinds  and  varying  strengths,  and  should  be  carefully 

used. 

(10) 


STAINS. 

WE  will  consider  stains  individually,  but  first  let  us 
take  up  the  methods  of  removing  them,  whether 
we  use  boiling  water,  an  acid,  an  alkali,  a  bleach- 
ing agent,  or  a  volatile  liquid. 

If  boiling  water  is  to  be  used,  stretch  the  stained  part 
over  a  large  bowl  or  saucepan,  have  a  teakettle  full  of 
absolutely  boiling  water  and  pour  water  through  the  stain 
until  it  disappears.  Hold  the  kettle  high  so  that  the  water 
may  fall  with  force  upon  the  stain. 

If  an  acid  is  necessary,  stretch  the  stained  part  over  a 
bowl  of  boiling  water  and  with  a  medicine  dropper  or  an 
old  tooth-brush  apply  very  dilute  muriatic  acid  (i%)  to  the 
wet  stain;  occasionally  dip  the  stain  into  the  water  and  use 
acid  again.  When  the  stain  disappears,  rinse  well  in  clear 
water  and  then  in  tepid  or  cold  water  in  which  a  little 
ammonia  has  been  poured — just  enough  to  give  a  slight 
odor.  Ammonia  will  overcome  any  bad  effect  the  acid  might 
have  upon  the  cloth  and  will  itself  evaporate.  Oxalic  acid 
may  be  used  in  the  same  way  if  the  stain  will  not  yield 
readily.  Oxalic  acid  comes  in  crystals  and  muriatic  acid  in 
liquid  form.  Both  can  be  purchased  at  the  drug  store  and 
are  violent  poisons,  but  in  the  i  %  strength  mentioned  muri- 
atic acid  is  harmless.  Strong  muriatic  acid  should  be  kept 
in  a  glass-stoppered  bottle. 

If  an  alkali  is  required,  dilute  ammonia  is  to  be  preferred, 
the  method  of  procedure  being  the  same  as  in  the  case  of  an 
acid. 


12  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

If  a  bleach  is  desired,  one  of  several  methods  may  be  used. 

The  sun  bleaches  by  oxidation  in  presence  of  moisture; 
the  efficiency  is  increased  by  green  vegetable  coloring  matter. 
All  colors  are  affected.  Wet  cloth  or  stain  and  lay  it  upon 
the  grass  in  strong  sunshine.  Keep  it  moist.  The  process  is 
a  slow  one  but  it  does  not  injure  the  fabric. 

Sulphur  fumes  bleach  by  deoxidation  and  are  applicable  to 
few  kinds  of  stains,  but  most  fruit  stains  will  yield  to  them. 
Results  are  not  permanent.  Place  a  lump  of  sulphur  on  an 
old  dish,  have  a  funnel  ready  to  confine  the  fumes;  put  a 
live  coal  or  a  match  on  the  sulphur,  invert  the  funnel  over 
it,  and  hold  the  moist  stain  in  the  fumes.  Sometimes  a  sul- 
phur match  will  furnish  gas  enough.  Do  not  get  the  burn- 
ing sulphur  on  the  skin  nor  breathe  the  fumes.  The  pres- 
ence of  moisture  is  absolutely  necessary. 

Peroxide  of  hydrogen  and  dilute  ammonia  will  bleach  by 
oxidation.  The  results  are  permanent,  and  particularly  ap- 
plicable to  woolen  fabrics.  The  ammonia  must  be  diluted 
in  the  proportions  of  one  teaspoonful  of  household  ammonia 
to  one  pint  of  water.  Use  equal  parts  of  fresh  peroxide  of 
hydrogen  and  dilute  ammonia.  Moisten  the  stain  in  this 
liquid  until  it  disappears. 

Chloride  of  lime  bleaches  by  oxidation;  the  results  are 
permanent,  but  unless  the  bleach  is  thoroughly  washed  out 
the  fabric  will  be  injured.  A  more  desirable  form  of  this 
bleach  is  as  follows  : 

JAVELLE  WATER. 

1  lb.  sal  soda,  or  preferably  pearl  ash, 
>(lb.  chloride  of  lime, 

2  qts.  cold  water. 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  13 

Mix   thoroughly,  let  it   stand  several   hours.     Pour  off 
clear  liquid  and  bottle  for  use.     Keep  in  a  dark,  cool  place. 

To  use  Javelle  water,  stretch  the  stained  article  and  rub 
the  liquid  into  it,  rinse  quickly  in  clear  water,  and  brush 
again  if  necessary.  Always  rinse  in  ammonia  water  at  last. 

Ether,  gasoline,  benzine,  alcohol,  and  chloroform,  or  in 
fact  any  liquid  material  that  vaporizes  easily,  must  always 
be  used  in  daylight,  and  preferably  in  the  open  air.  If  in 
the  house,  no  lamp  or  fire  of  any  kind  can  be  in  the  room, 
and  the  windows  or  doors  must  be  open  to  carry  off  the 
vapors.  Never  put  one  of  these  materials  on  a  wet  cloth. 
The  fumes  are  very  inflammable,  and  serious  damages  would 
be  done  were  these  precautions  not  borne  in  mind. 

SPECIAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  TAKING 
OUT  STAINS 

BLOOD — If  fresh  or  recently  dried,  soak  in  cold  or  tepid  water,  rub 
out;  when  stain  is  brown  and  nearly  gone,  use  soap  and  warm 
water.  If  very  dry,  soak  and  wash  out;  use  Javelle  water  or 
peroxide  of  hydrogen. 

BRASS— Rub  with  rancid  lard  or  butter  before  washing.  Warm  white 
wine  vinegar  is  a  solvent  for  brass  or  copper,  but  must  not  be 
used  on  colored  goods. 

COCOA — Wash  in  cold  water  first,  then  rinse  and  pour  boiling  water 
through  it.  If  resistant,  try  a  bleaching  agent. 

COFFEE— Pour  boiling  water  through  it  from  a  height.  If  resist- 
ant, try  a  bleaching  agent. 

FRUIT  —Alcohol  softens  and  dissolves  many  fruit  stains.  If  the  alco- 
hol is  warmed  over  hot  water  it  will  be  more  efficient ;  later,  use 
boiling  water  poured  from  a  height.  If  resistant,  try  sulphur 
fumes,  dilute  muriatic  acid,  or  a  bleaching  agent. 


(4  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 


GRASS— Alcohol  will  dissolve  the  green  coloring  matter  of  plants  and 
is  recommended  when  the  material  cannot  be  washed. 

GREASE  or  OIL — Wash  with  cold  water  and  soap  first,  and  use  solvents 
after  drying,  if  necessary.  Axle  grease,  rub  with  lard  and  let  it 
stand  to  soften,  then  wash  out.  For  fabrics  that  cannot  be 
washed,  the  material  may  be  treated  with  gasoline.  Rub  alwrays 
toward  the  centre  of  the  stain,  and  have  several  folds  of  clean 
cloth  under  the  spot.  Use  always  by  daylight  and  in  a  draft. 
Ether  is  better  than  gasoline  and  is  used  in  the  same  way. 
Powdered  chalk  or  blotting  paper  may  be  used  to  absorb  the  oil. 
Kerosene  will  evaporate.  Vaseline  stains  should  be  soaked  in 
kerosene  before  washing.  Chloroform,  or  preferably  carbona, 
is  a  better  solvent  than  gasoline,  and  with  either  there  is  no 
danger  of  flame  or  explosion. 

INK— Place  stained  portion  in  sweet  or  sour  milk  and  allow  it  to  stand 
several  days.  Change  milk,  wash  out  in  clear  water,  and  try 
again,  if  necessary.  Unless  you  know  the  character  of  the  ink, 
it  is  hard  to  know  what  to  recommend.  Try  peroxide  of  hydro- 
gen and  dilute  ammonia  if  the  stain  is  fresh,  lemon  and  salt, 
acid  oxalate  of  potash,  known  as  salts  of  lemon,  or  oxalic  acid, 
and  lastly  Javelle  water. 

Red  Ink — Wash  with  cold  water  or  water  and  ammonia.     If  fit 
does  not  come  out,  use  Javelle  water. 

IRON  RUST — Lemon  juice,  salt,  and  hot  sunshine  may  dissolve  the 
stain,  but  more  often  muriatic  acid  is  necessary.  Oxalic  acid 
may  be  tried,  acid  oxalate  of  potash, "known  as  salts  of  lemon, 
or  oxalic  acid  and  dilute  muriatic  acid.  If  available,  ox-gall 
will  remove  iron  stain. 

MEDICINE — Alcohol  usually  dissolves  medicines.  For  iodine,  use 
hyposulphite  of  soda  or  chloroform. 

MILDEW — Is  really  a  plant,  a  mould  growing  on  the  fibre.  It  shows 
itself  in  warm  weather  when  clothes  are  kept  damp  for  a  day  or 
two.  If  fresh  it  may  be  removed,  but  if  old  it  will  not  come  out. 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  15 

Wet  in  strong  soap  suds,  cover  with  a  paste  of  soap  and 
powdered  chalk,  or  chalk  and  salt,  and  put  in  the  strong  sun- 
light for  hours.  If  it  does  not  yield  to  these,  Javelle  water  or 
bleaching  agents  may  be  used,  but  the  fibre  is  liable  to  suffer. 

MILK  OR  CREAM— Wash  out  with  cold  water,  and  later  use  soap 
and  cold  water. 

MUCUS,  as  in  handkerchiefs,  should  be  washed  in  ammonia  and 
water  before  using  soap.  In  case  of  a  heavy  cold  it  is  best  to 
soak  all  handkerchiefs  in  a  strong  solution  of  boracic  acid  for 
several  hours. 

PAINT  OR  TAR— If  fresh  and  washable,  use  soap  and  water;  if  not 
washable,  use  gasoline.  If  dry  and  washable,  soften  with  lard 
or  oil  and  then  use  soap  and  water;  if  not  washable,  soften  and 
wash  in  gasoline.  If  color  is  delicate,  soften  with  oil  and  rub 
out  with  ether  or  chloroform.  The  most  effectual  remedy  for 
dry  paint  or  varnish  is  amyl  acetate  or  resin  spirits;  soften  stain 
with  one  of  them  and  wash  out  with  gasoline. 

PERSPIRATION— Use  strong  soap  solution  and  let  the  garment  lie 
in  the  sunshine.  The  perspiration  under  the  arms  is  different 
from  that  of  the  rest  of  the  body  and  requires  an  acid  to  neutral- 
ize it.  Use  dilute  muriatic  acid. 

SUGAR  OR  GUM — Dissolve  with  warm  water  if  washable  ;  with 
dilute  alcohol  if  not  washable. 

TEA— Rub  out  in  cold  water  first,  then  pour  boiling  water  through  it. 
Glycerine  may  be  used  to  soak  the  stain. 

WAX — Cover  the  spot,  both  sides,  with  brown  or  blotting  paper  and 
apply  a  warm  (not  hot)  iron.  It  may  be  dissolved  by  hot 
alcohol. 

WINE— If  a  red  wine,  cover  with  a  layer  of  salt  while  fresh,  then  use 
boiling  water.  Moist  salt  and  sunshine  may  be  used  if  it  does 
not  come  out  easily.  If  a  yellow  wine,  wash  first  with  cold 
water,  then  with  soap  and  water. 


FABRICS 

THE  fabrics  that  we  deal  with  ordinarily  are  of  both 
vegetable  and  animal  origin. 

The  vegetable  fibres,  cotton  and  linen,  are  of  a 
cellulose,  woody  nature,  and  do  not  readily  combine  with 
other  materials.  Their  resistance  makes  them  tough,  strong, 
and  not  as  easily  dyed  as  animal  fibres. 

Under  the  microscope  the  cotton  fibre  is  ribbon-like, 
somewhat  thickened  at  the  edges,  tapering  toward  the  end, 
and  slightly  twisted.  The  fibres  come  from  the  fruit  pod 
of  the  plant,  are  from  one  to  t\vo  and  a  third  inches  long, 
and  seem  like  a  flattened  tube,  probably  a  plant  cell. 

Linen  comes  from  the  stem  of  the  flax  plant.  The  fibres 
are  from  ten  to  twelve  inches  long  and  under  the  microscope 
are  apparently  straight,  transparent  tubes. 

Cold  dilute  acids,  or  alkalies,  will  gradually  weaken  both 
cotton  and  linen  fibres.  Concentrated  acids  and  alkalies 
act  upon  both  according  to  concentration  and  time  allowed. 
Linen  is  more  strongly  affected  by  alkalies  than  cotton. 
With  concentrated  acids  cotton  is  converted  into  parchment- 
like  material  first,  then  gradually  falls  to  pieces.  With 
concentrated  alkalies  cotton  becomes  thicker,  transparent, 
lustrous,  is  in  fact  mercerized,  then  decomposes.  Sal  soda 
(Sodium  carbonate)  acts  but  mildly  on  either  cotton  or  linen. 
Moist  chloride  of  lime  and  sunlight  weaken  both  fibres,  and 
if  boiled  with  a  weak  solution  of  chloride  of  lime,  the  fibres 
grow  weaker  the  longer  the  contact.  This  material  is  used 
in  bleaching  both  fibres,  and  the  fact  that  unbleached  ma- 
terials are  stronger  than  bleached  is  thus  accounted  for. 

The  animal  fibres  ordinarily  used  are  wool  and  silk.     Both 
(16) 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  J7 

are  nitrogenous  in  character,  one — wool — being  hair-like, 
the  other — silk — being  gum-like.  Both  are  more  easily  in- 
jured than  vegetable  fibres,  silk  being  more  delicate  than  wool. 

Wool  is  composed  of  numberless  sections  or  sheaths,  one 
growing  out  of  the  next,  and  each  sheath  with  more  or  less 
jagged  edges.  They  form  a  tube  with  from  one  thousand 
to  three  thousand  sections  to  the  inch.  These  ragged-edged 
sheaths  explain  what  is  known  as  shrinking.  When  we 
think  how  closely  the  fibres  lie  in  cloth,  we  can  under- 
stand^how  the  jagged  edges  may  interlock  with  rubbing 
or  with  the  expansion  and  contraction  of  heat  and  cold  in 
the  water  with  which  we  wash  flannels.  The  wool  fibres 
are  from  one  to  eleven  inches  long. 

All  alkalies  act  on  wool.  The  effect  depending  upon  the 
kind,  concentration,  temperature  of  solution,  and  duration 
of  contact.  Cold  dilute  caustic  alkalies  are  destructive, 
but  if  hot  they  will  dissolve  the  wool  fibre.  Sal  soda  makes 
the  color  yellow,  the  fibre  harsh  and  less  elastic.  Ammonia 
has  the  least  action.  Dilute  acids  roughen  the  fibre  but 
concentrated  acids  disintegrate  it.  Chloride  of  lime  injures 
the  fibre  and,  if  hot,  destroys  it. 

Silk,  the  product  of  the  silk-worm  just  as  it  enters  the 
chrysalis  state,  is  a  lustrous,  strong,  elastic  fibre.  The  fibre 
is  double,  coming  from  two  glands  in  the  head  through  one 
opening,  and  is  from  nj/2  to  41^2  feet  long. 

All  alkalies  act  upon  silk  according  to  kind,  concentra- 
tion, temperature  of  solution,  and  duration  of  contact.  The 
lustre  is  first  impaired  and  then  the  fibre  is  finally  dissolved. 
Dilute  acids  roughen  the  fibre  but  concentrated  acids  dis- 
integrate it.  Both  silk  and  wool  are  readily  affected  by  dry 
heat;  silk  first  stiffens,  then  breaks. 


SOAP 

IN  very  early  times   soap  was  unknown.     Clothes  were 
rubbed  and  beaten  in  running  water  to  loosen  the  dirt. 
The  oily  dirt  in  the  clothes  is  insoluble,  that  is,  it  is 
not  removable  by  water.     As  a  consequence  the  labor  of  re- 
moving it  is  so  great  that  the  fabric  is  liable  to  be  injured. 
Later  it  was  discovered  that  wood  ashes  would  lighten  the 
labor  of  washing,  but  if  they  were  used  too  freely  not  only 
the  dirt  but  the  hands  and  the  fabric  itself  were  injured. 

Soap  is  a  combination  of  a  caustic  alkali  with  a  fat  or, 
more  properly  speaking,  with  a  fatty  acid.  The  fat  is 
broken  up  into  two  parts — fatty  acid  and  glycerine — by 
means  of  alkali  and  heat.  The  fatty  acid  combines  with 
alkali  and  the  glycerine  is  left  free;  glycerine  is  a  by-product 
of  every  soap  factory.  Potash,  soda  ash,  and  caustic  soda 
are  the  alkalies  most  frequently  used  in  soap  making.  Pot- 
ash produces  a  soft  soap,  while  the  soda,  which  is  used  ex- 
clusively in  the  soap  factories  in  the  United  States,  produces 
a  good,  hard  soap.  Among  other  materials  used  in  soap  are 
tallow,  grease,  cottonseed  oil,  cocoanut  oil,  cottonseed 
foots,  corn  oil,  olive  oil,  olive  oil  foots,  palm  oil,  castor  oil, 
and  resin.  One  or  more  of  these  products  are  used  at  will. 
A  fixed  amount  of  alkali  is  required  to  saponify  a  definite- 
quantity  of  fat  or  oil;  when  the  proper  proportions  are 
adhered  to  the  result  is  a  "neutral"  soap.  A  neutral  soap  is 
one  in  which  there  is  no  "free"  (uncombined)  alkali  or  fat: 
Resin  is  used  in  yellow  laundry  soaps.  A  small  percentage 
of  high-grade  resin  does  not  injure  the  quality  of  the  soap. 
(18) 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  19 

Iii  fact,  it  aids  in  forming  suds,  which  carries  off  the  dirt;  but 
resin  in  excess  or  of  a  low  grade  makes  undesirable  soap. 

Soap  owes  its  cleansing  power  to  its  solubility  and  its  at- 
traction for  "dirt."  In  hot  water  soap  dissolves  perfectly, 
but  as  the  water  cools  it  seems  to  separate,  especially  if 
there  is  much  water  present.  Hot  soap  solution  does  the 
best  work.  The  most  plausible  explanation  of  the  detergent 
value  of  soap  is  that  it  is  an  excellent  emulsifying  agent: 
the  dirt  in  clothes  is  largely  of  an  oily  nature,  and  oil.  is 
easily  emulsified. 

In  choosing  soap,  the  use  to  which  it  is  to  be  put  must  be 
considered.  A  white,  neutral,  floating  soap,  like  Ivory,  can 
be  used  for  all  toilet  purposes,  and  is  also  the  best  soap  for 
silks,  woolens,  laces,  and  fine  muslins.  It  will  affect  the  fa- 
bric less  than  any  other  kind  and,  being  white,  leaves  no 
color  to  be  rinsed  out  or  removed  later.  The  light  brown 
soap,  like  L,enox,  is  the  universal  laundry  soap.  The  small 
amount  of  resin  in  it  gives  the  color  (as  well  perhaps  as  the 
darker  fats  used).  The  resin  helps  to  form  the  suds,  which 
acts  as  a  dirt  carrier. 

As  a  rule,  naphtha  soaps  are  lighter  in  color  than  ordinary 
laundry  soaps  and  contain  no  resin.  Naphtha  or  a  petroleum 
product  akin  to  naphtha  but  less  volatile  is  incorporated  in 
the  soap.  The  petroleum  oil  is  a  valuable  solvent  and  adds  to 
the  effectiveness  of  the  soap.  The  Procter  &  Gamble 
(P.  &  G.)  Naphtha  Soap  is  white;  showing  the  high  grade 
of  materials  that  are  used  to  form  the  neutral  soap  which  is 
its  foundation.  A  good  naphtha  soap  lessens  the  work  of 
rubbing  and  for  that  reason  is  popular  with  housewives  who 
do  their  own  washing.  It  also  does  away  with  boiling  if 
plenty  of  water,  sunshine  and  fresh  air  are  used  but  an 


20  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

occasional  boiling  is  even  then  necessary  to  make  clothes 
pure  and  sweet  smelling. 

To  use  Naphtha  soap,  shave  it  into  warm  (not  hot)  water 

/  and  soak  the  clothes  in  it  for  one  hour,  or  better  still,  over 

night.     Very  dirty  clothes  should  have   soap   rubbed  into 

V  them  before  soaking.     Rinse  clothes  out  of  water  in  which 

they  have  been  soaked,  look  them  over  for  soiled  spots  which 

may  need  rubbing,  rinse,  blue,  and  hang  out. 

Soap  powders  are  powdered  soap,  to  which  has  been 
added  more  or  less  washing  soda  and,  sometimes,  a  scourer. 

Home-made  soap  is  unsatisfactory.  Kven  with  the  great- 
est of  care  in  making,  soap  made  by  what  is  known  as  the 
cold  process  is  not  perfectly  combined,  and  it  contains  all 
the  impurities  in  the  original  fat.  It  would  be  far  better 
for  housekeepers  to  sell  the  fats  and  get  a  good  soap  for  use. 

Soap  Solution. — For  laundry  purposes  one  bar  of  ordinary 
laundry  soap  may  be  cut  up  and  dissolved  in  three  or  four 
quarts  of  hot  water;  this  can  be  used  at  once  while  hot,  or 
kept  in  a  glass  or  china  jar  until  needed. 

Ivory  soap  solution,  if  sufficiently  concentrated,  will  form 
a  jelly  on  cooling;  it  is  valuable  in  cleaning  material  for 
which  you  would  not  use  soap  and  water — gloves,  leather, 
and  things  of  a  similar  nature.  The  proportions  are  one 
small  cake  of  Ivory  soap  to  two  quarts  of  water.  Shave  the 
soap  into  the  water  and  cook  about  ten  minutes,  or  until 
perfectly  dissolved.  Use  hot  for  any  purpose,  but  only 
when  cold  and  with  a  dry  cloth  for  cleaning  gloves,  etc. 
The  best  results  are  obtained  .if  the  glove  is  kept  on  the 
hand  during  the  process  of  cleaning. 


LAUNDRY  AIDS 

MOST  important  of  the  little  extras  in  a  laundry  is 
starch.  It  is  of  vegetable  origin,  and  found  in 
many  parts  of  the  plant,  but  principally  in  the  seed, 
root,  or  tuber,  where  it  is  stored  as  food  for  the  germ  when 
it  begins  to  sprout.  The  tiny  starch  granules,  known  to  us 
as  a  tasteless,  odorless,  white  powder,  cannot  be  distinguished 
one  from  the  other  except  by  the  microscope,  when  their  shape, 
size,  and  markings  are  recognized.  When  subjected  to  heat 
and  moisture  these  granules  absorb  moisture,  burst  their 
envelopes  and  combine  with  the  water  to  form  a  gelatinous 
mass,  more  or  less  thick,  according  to  the  amount  of  water 
used.  It  is  this  peculiarity  of  starch  which  makes  it  valu- 
able in  the  laundry.  The  threads  of  the  cloth  are  coated 
with  starch,  and  the  spaces  between  the  threads  are  filled. 
This  gives  stiffness  to  the  material  when  dry,  and  prevents 
its  mussing,  soiling,  or  staining  easily.  The  usual  sources 
of  starch  are  corn,  wheat,  rice,  and  potato.  Sago  and.  tapio- 
ca both  furnish  excellent  starch,  similar  in  its  qualities  to 
rice  starch. 

Rice  starch  is  capable  of  great  dilution,  the  granule  being 
one  of  the  smallest;  it  is  used  for  fine  muslins.  It  is  manu- 
factured and  used  very  largely  in  Europe,  and  is  little 
known  here. 

Corn  starch  is  cheap  and  in  general  use;  its  stiffening 
quality  is  high. 

Wheat  starch  is  used  in  public  laundries  because  its  results 

(2T) 


22  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

are  satisfactory,  the  material  being  not  only  stiff  but  more 
flexible  than  when  corn  starch  is  used. 

Potato  starch  is  little  used  except  for  the  filling  of  cloth 
in  factories. 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  MAKING  STARCH 

Mix  starch  with  a  small  quantity  of  cold  water  to  a  creamy 
consistency,  add  a  little  more  cold  water,  and  then  the  de- 
sired amount  of  absolutely  boiling  water,  stirring  constantly. 
Put  the  starch  over  the  fire  and  boil  it  for  several  minutes, 
to  insure  complete  cooking,  and  stir  it  all  the  time  it  is 
cooking.  Cool  or  dilute  for  use.  If  oil,  borax,  or  wax  are 
used,  they  should  be  cooked  with  the  starch,  but  bluing  is 
added  later. 

The  proportions  for  cooked  starch  are  one  measurement 
of  starch  to  eight  of  boiling  water,  for  thick  starch;  and  one 
measurement  of  starch  to  sixteen  of  boiling  water,  for  thin 
starch. 

Uncooked  or  partly  cooked  starch  will  stick  and  make 
trouble  for  the  ironer.  (Irons  must  always  be  hot  for 
starched  clothes.)  The  amount  of  starch  needed  is  regu- 
lated by  the  number  of  clothes  to  be  starched.  Starch  can 
be  made  thinner  by  adding  water,  and  it  always  grows  thin- 
ner with  use.  Starched  clothes  must  never  be  stiff  enough 

to  rattle. 

THICK  STARCH 

Mix  l/2  cup  starch  and 

%  cup  cold  water,  add 

}£  level  teaspoonful  shaven  white  wax  or  lard  and 

4  cups  (1  qt. )  boiling  water. 

Let  it  boil  up  several  times,  to  be  sure  that  wax  is  melted 
and  mixed  and  starch  cooked.      Add  a  little  bluing  and 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  23 

set  dish  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  until  it  is  cool  enough  to 

handle. 

THIN  STARCH 

In  a  clean  granite  kettle  put 

Yz  cup  starch, 

^  level  teaspoonful  lard  or  twice  as  much  borax,  stir 
smooth  with 

y2  cup  of  cold  water,  then,  stirring  rapidly,  add 

3  pints  of  boiling  water  and  continue  stirring  until  it 
boils  thoroughly.  Have  holder  ready  to  lift  it  from  the 
fire,  or  it  will  boil  over.  Add 

i  pint  of  cold  water  to  thin  it  and  reduce  the  heat, 
and  enough  bluing  to  counteract  the  yellow  color  of  the 
starch.  Turn  starch  into  a  large  dish.  If  carefully  made, 
it  need  not  be  strained. 

RICE  STARCH 

Wash  ^  cup  rice,  put  into 

i  quart  water,  boil  it  slowly,  stir  often  at  first,  keep 
up  the  quantity  of  water,  and  cook  until  the  rice  is  a  pulp. 
Add  i  quart  boiling  water,  and  strain  through  a  flannel 
bag  (without  pressing).  If  too  thick,  dilute  it  with  cold 
water,  and  use  while  hot. 

RAW  STARCH 

'To  3  tablespoonsful  of  the  plain  starch,  add 
i  teaspoonful  borax  and 

i  pint  of  tepid  water.     Stir  well  and  use  at  once. 
If  prepared  starch  is  used,  make  in  the  same  way,  but 
do  not  add  borax. 

After  using,  allow  the  starch,  if  clean,  to  stand  and  set- 
tle, pour  the  water  off,  and  dry  the  starch.  It  may  be 
used  again  as  raw  starch,  or,  better,  may  be  made  into 
cooked  starch. 

BLUING 

Sunshine,  moisture,  and  fresh  air  are  the  greatest  bleach- 
ers.    Could  we  command  a  clean  grass  plot,  pure  air,  and 


24  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

sunshine,  there  would  be  no  need  of  bluing.  Clothes  be- 
come yellow  from  careless  washing,  dark  colored  soaps, 
stains,  or  impure  water.  To  cover  up  this  telltale  color,  we 
use  bluing.  Bluing  is  sold  in  solid  or  liquid  form.  The 
solid  is  usually  insoluble,  and  is  much  used.  It  never  dis- 
solves, but  the  fine  particles  of  blue  are  all  through  the 
water  while  it  is  in  motion,  and  will  settle  when  the  water 
is  undisturbed.  These  particles  lodge  in  the  cloth  and  give 
it  a  bluish-white  color. 

Indigo,  a  solid  blue,  was  originally  a  vegetable  product, 
but  is  now  manufactured  chemically.  It  was  the  first  bluing 
known.  It  varies  greatly  in  quality,  and  is  little  used  at 
present. 

Ultramarine  bhie  was  originally  the  stone  lapis  lazuli, 
ground  fine,  but  is  now  manufactured  chemically  and  sold 
in  little  blue  balls. 

Aniline  blue,  either  solid  or  liquid,  is  a  product  of  coal 
tar,  and  is  a  strong  dye.  This  blue  is  used  almost  exclu- 
sively by  the  public  laundries.  It  will  not  set  in  an  alkaline 
medium,  therefore  the  clothes  must  be  rinsed  free  from  soap 
before  using  it.  To  make  sure  of  the  color,  a  little  acid  is 
added  to  the  water  before  the  clothes  are  put  in.  Being  a 
dye,  it  is  not  easy  to  wash  out  if  too  much  is  used. 

Prussian  blue  is  usually  sold  in  liquid  form.  It  was  first 
manufactured  at  Berlin,  hence  its  name.  Being  soluble,  it 
is  easy  to  use,  and  gives  a  bright  blue  to  the  clothes.  Prus- 
sian blue  is  a  salt  of  iron,  and,  with  an  alkali,  changes  to 
iron  rust.  If  the  clothes  are  rinsed  free  of  soap,  it  may  be 
used  with  good  results.  If  careless  work  is  done,  you  may 
find  the  clothes  yellow  or  rusted  in  fine  spots,  and  be  unable 
to  account  for  it.  You  can  assure  yourself  that  the  liquid 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  25 

is  Prussian  blue  by  heating  a  little  of  it  with  a  strong  solu- 
tion of  sal  soda.  The  mixture  will  turn  yellowish  red  and 
precipitate  what  is  known  as  iron  rust. 

Every  laundry  cupboard  would  be  more  complete  if  sup- 
plied with  the  following  materials: 

BEESWAX  or  PARAFFINE,  used  to  fill  up  and  make  smooth  sad 

irons.     It  should  be  tied  in  a  cloth  for  easier  handling. 
COMMON  SALT,  a  neutral  compound,  used  as  a  scourer  for  soiled 

irons,  or  to  set  colors. 

AMMONIA,  in  liquid  form  (household  ammonia),  and 
BORAX,  a  white  powder.     Both  being  mild  alkalies,  they  are   used 

where  soaking  rather  than  rubbing  is  desirable  to  loosen  the 

dirt,  and  the  color  is  not  to  be  considered. 
SAL  SODA,  or  washing  soda,  is  used  for  testing,  and  to  "break  "  hard 

water. 

JAVELLE  WATER  is  used  to  take  out  stains,  and  to  bleach. 
MURIATIC  ACID,  dilute,  a  liquid,  and 

OXALIC  ACID,  in  crystal  form,  are  used  to  take  out  stains.     A  medi- 
cine dropper  is  desirable  to  use  with  these,  as  the  skin  is  easily 

roughened  by  them. 

VINEGAR,  used  to  set  colors.     It  should  be  colorless. 
GRAIN  ALCOHOL,   used   to   dissolve   sugar,  some  medicine,  and 

grass  stains. 

ETHER  will  dissolve  fat  or  oil  from  the  more  delicate  fabrics. 
KEROSENE  is  a  solvent,  used  in  washing  and  cleaning  rubber. 
GASOLINE  is  used  to  take  out  stains  and  clean  gloves  and  ribbons. 

Being  very  inflammable,  it  must  be  used  with  great  care  and 

where  there  is  no  flame. 
SULPHUR  is  used  as  a  bleacher.     When  burned,  the  fumes  must  be 

brought  in  contact  with  a  moist  stain. 
POWDERED  CHALK  or  FULLER'S  EARTH   is   used   to   absorb 

stains. 
SOAP  should  be  bought  in  quantity  and  kept  in  a  clean,  dry  place. 

If  allowed  to  harden,  there  is  less  waste  in  using. 


EQUIPMENT  FOR  HOME  LAUNDRY 

THE  ROOM,  used  for  laundry  work,  should  be  light  and 
airy. 

The  STOVE,  if  for  laundry  work  exclusively,  should 
be  one  made  for  the  purpose.     It  need  never  be  blacked. 

Cost,  $6.50. 

TUBS,  if  stationary,  should  be  porcelain  lined.  Slate  is 
next  best,  but  has  seams,  which  are  undesirable.  Tubs  are 
also  made  of  cement.  Wood  is  too  absorptive  to  be  clean. 
The  height  of  stationary  tubs  from  the  floor  is  rarely  right 
for  the  average  woman.  This  should  be  considered  when 
they  are  set.  Portable  tubs  are  made  of  fibre,  galvanized 
iron,  enamel,  or  wood.  The  wooden  ones  are  best  if  made 
of  cedar  and  brass-bound,  but  all  wooden  tubs  are  heavy, 
and  will  warp  and  leak  if  not  kept  in  a  damp  place  or  with 
water  in  them.  Tubs  of  all  kinds  must  be  kept  clean,  but 
Sapolio  must  not  be  used.  A  scourer  of  any  kind  roughens 
the  surface  and  makes  it  easier  for  the  dirt  to  lodge.  A 
strong  soap  or  sal  soda  will  keep  the  galvanized  tub  bright, 
but  at  the  expense  of  the  plate.  When  that  is  off,  the  sheet 
iron  foundation  will  rust. 

Cost.  No  estimate  can  be  given  for  stationary  tubs. 
They  are  usually,  put  in  when  the  house  is  built,  and  the 
local  plumber  can  be  consulted.  Fibre  Tub,  $1.35;  Galvan- 
ized Iron  Tub,  85 c.;  Wooden  Tub,  $1.25. 

Three  tubs  are  necessary  for  good  work. 

A  WASH  BENCH  should  be  of  the  right  height  for  the 
(26) 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  27 


LAUNDRY  STOVE 


28  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

user.  Thirty-six  inches  or  less  from  top  of  tub  to  floor  is 
considered  right.  The  bench  may  have  pegs  to  hold  the 
tubs  in  place,  and  often  has  a  support  for  the  wringer  set 
between  the  tubs. 

Cost,  $1.05  to  $1.25. 

A  RUBBING  BOARD  is  often  moulded  into  the  stationary 
tub,  bttt  this  is  rarely  used,  probably  because  it  is  not  of  the 
right  height  or  slant.  Portable  boards  are  made  of  brass, 
zinc,  or  glass,  and  as  long  as  they  are  not  broken  or  ragged, 
there  seems  to  be  little  choice  in  them,  except  that  the 
rougher  ones  are  better  for  dirty  clothes. 

Cost,  35c.  to  J5c. 

WASHING  MACHINES  are  very  helpful  for  heavy  clothes 
and  where  large  washings  are  the  rule.  Many  washing 
machines  are  wood-lined,  have  a  kneading  motion,  and  are 
worked  by  a  lever  or  crank.  Others  have  an  inverted  cone, 
worked  by  a  lever,  which  presses  down  into  the  wet  clothes 
and  sucks  the  dirt  up.  The  clothes  may  have  to  be  looked 
over  for  soiled  spots,  which  must  be  rubbed.  The  machine 
must  be  kept  clean,  free  from  dust  and  rust,  and  out  of  the 
weather. 

Cost,  $3.95  up. 

A  WRINGER  saves  not  only  time  and  strength  but  the 
clothes  as  well.  A  good  one  will  last  for  years  if  well 
cared  for.  Always  clean  and  dry  it  after  using.  A  little 
kerosene  will  brighten  the  rubber  when  it  becomes  dull  or 
stained,  but  remember  that  kerosene  cleans  by  eating  off  a 
thin  layer  of  rubber  every  time  it  is  used.  Oil  the  wringer 
occasionally  and,  when  not  in  use,  leave  the  screws  loose, 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  29 

that  the  rolls  may  not  become  flat.  Cover  the  wringer  with 
a  cloth  to  keep  it  clean. 

Cost,  $2.50  to  $6.00. 

The  BOILER  may  be  round  or  oblong,  stationary  or  port- 
able, but  should  be  very  largely  of  copper,  not  only  for  the 
sake  of  greater  durability  but  also  because  copper  transmits 
heat  more  readily  than  almost  any  other  metal. 

Cost,  $2.00  to  $7.00. 

A  CLOTHES  STICK  may  be  made  of  an  old  broomstick,  or 
can  be  bought  with  a  metal-pronged  end. 

Cost,  5  to  i$c. 

A  PAIL,  of  enameled  ware,  galvanized  iron,  tin,  fibre,  or 
wood  is  necessary  for  changing  waters. 

Cost,  Fibre,  o8c.;  Enamel,  $1.05;  Wood,  joe.  to  500.; 
Galvanized  Iron,  i$c.  to  230.;  Tin,  55^:.  • 

A  DIPPER,  of  enameled  ware  or  tin,  is  also  necessary. 
Tin  is  so  thinly  coated  on  the  iron  that  it  soon  wears  off  and 
rust  appears. 

Cost,  Enamel,  380.;  Tin,  236. 

A  DISH  PAN,  of  enameled  ware,  is  desirable  to  hold  clothes 
when  being  carried  to  and  from  the  boiler. 

Cost,  $1.00.  to  $1.25. 

A  SAUCE  PAN,  of  5  or  6-qt.  capacity,  is  necessary  for 
making  starch,  and  this  should  be  of  enameled  ware,  made 
with  a  bail. 

Cost,  3$c.  up. 

A  SAUCE  PAN  or  PAIL  is  needed  in  which  to  make  soap 
solution. 

Cost,  250.  up. 

A  TEAKETTLE,  of  enameled  ware  or  tin,  for  heating  starch 
water. 

Cost,  85 c.  up. 


30  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

i  CASE  KNIFE,  for  shaving  soap,  wax,  etc.,  and  for  clean- 
ing irons. 

Cost,  I2C. 

i  L/ARGE  WOODEN  SPOON,  for  starch  making. 

Cost,  5<r. 

For  measuring  or  stirring. 

i  TABLESPOON. 

Cost,  i$c. 

i  TEASPOON. 

Cost,  ioc. 

i  TIN  CUP  (^  pint,  divided  into  fourths). 

Cost,  i$c. 

i  QUART  CUP. 

Cost,  i8c. 

A  MANGLE  or  IRONING  MACHINE  is  desirable  if  there  is 
much  flat  work — bed  and  table  linen  and  towels — to  be 
ironed.  They  are  little  used  outside  of  a  public  laundry, 
but  deserve  to  be  better  known.  They  save  much  time  and 
labor,  and,  if  the  rolls  are  heated,  do  excellent  work  with 
careful  handling. 

Cost  $20.00  to  $30.00. 

The  TABLE  for  sprinkling  and  ironing  should  be  strong 
and  firm,  and  not  more  than  32  inches  high.  For  thick 
starch  work,  the  weight  of  the  ironer  is  often  laid  upon  the 
iron,  and  her  table  must  be  adjusted  to  her  work.  For 
ironing,  the  table  should  be  covered  with  two  thicknesses  of 
a  wool  or  cotton  blanket,  or  one  of  felt,  made  for  the  pur- 
pose, and  over  that  a  sheet  made  of  firm,  smooth  cotton, 
preferably  half  bleached,  because  it  wears  longer.  Never 
furnish  old,  half-worn  cotton  for  an  ironing  sheet.  With 
care  and  an  occasional  washing,  the  new  cotton  will  last  for 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  3 1 


MANGLE 


32  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 


months.  The  sheet  should  be  hemmed  and  have  tapes  at- 
tached to  it,  which  are  tied  under  the  table  and  hold  it  in 
place. 

Cost.  Table,  $2.00  up;  laundry  settee,  36  in.  long,  $4.25; 
blanket,  cotton  padding  68  in.  wide,  $r.io;  cotton,  unbleached, 
36  in.  wide,  loc. 

A  SKIRT  BOARD  is  used  for  many  things  besides  skirts. 
It  sometimes  has  a  standard  attached.  If  this  makes  a  firm 
board,  it  is  very  desirable  and  can  be  used  for  a  large  part  of 
the  ironing.  The  blanket  should  be  tacked  on,  and  the  cot- 
ton sheet  tied  or  pinned. 

Cost,  6$c.;  (five  feet  long}  stand  (Udell)  $8c.;  with  rack  un- 
derneath, $1.25. 

A  BOSOM  BOARD  is  needed  for  shirt  ironing,  unless  the 
end  of  the  skirt  board  can  be  used  for  that  purpose. 

Cost,  i8c. 

A  SLEEVE  BOARD  is  a  great  help  for  infants'  clothes  as 
well  as  sleeves. 

Cost,  3$c.  to  $1.10. 

An  IRONING  STAND  may  be  free  from  or  attached  to  the 
table  or  board,  but  it  is  necessary  to  protect  board  and  cloth. 

Cost,  $c. 

An  IRONING  HOLDER  of  asbestos,  may  be  made  or  bought. 

Cost,  $c. 

BEESWAX  or  PARAFFINE,  wrapped  in  cloth,  the  ends  of 
which  are  covered  with  a  handle,  can  be  bought  to  keep 
irons  smooth. 

Cost,  5c.  each. 

A  CLOTHES  HORSE,  which  can  be  folded  up  when  not  in 
use,  is  necessary.  It  should  be  light,  strong,  and  made 
with  no  iron  anywhere. 

Cost,  He. 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 


33 


BRUSH   FOR   SPRINKLING   CLOTHES 


SLEEVE    BOARD 


34  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

SAD  IRONS  must  have  a  smooth  surface.  Nickel-plated 
irons  will  not  rust.  Steel-faced  irons  will  keep  smooth  with 
care.  The  irons  with  detachable  handle  are  desirable,  but 
the  old-fashioned  ones  will  do  quite  as  good  work.  A  gas 
iron  has  a  tube  connecting  it  with  the  gas  pipe,  and  the  gas 
burns  inside  the  iron.  An  electric  iron  has  wire  connections 
with  an  electric  plant.  The  heat  does  not  vary  in  this  iron, 
so  it  can  be  used  continually. 

New  irons  must  be  heated  thoroughly  and  rubbed  with 
grease  or  wax  before  using.  Store  irons  in  a  warm,  dry 
place.  If  they  are  to  be  packed  away,  rub  them  with 
vaseline  or  clean  grease  and  wrap  in  paper.  Irons  must 
be  kept  clean  to  do  good  work.  Never  put  a  soiled  iron 
back  onto  the  stove.  Use  a  dull  case  knife  or  piece  of  steel 
to  get  the  starch  off.  Sometimes  it  will  be  necessary  to  rub 
them  on  fine  salt  sprinkled  on  paper,  or  even  to  wash  them 
in  soap  and  water  and  dry  them.  Wax  rubbed  over  the 
warm  surface  and  then  rubbed  off  on  a  cloth  or  paper  will 
keep  them  smooth. 

Cost,  2  sad  irons,  8  Ibs. ,  4.00.  each;  2  sad  irons,  6  Ibs. ,  joe.  each; 
I  sad  iron,  4.  Ibs. ,  2oc.  each;  i  flounce  iron,  narrow  and  long,  2$c; 
i  or  2  polishers,  ^c.  each;  set  of  3  irons,  with  detachable  handle, 
$8c. ;  gas  or  alcohol  iron,  950. ;  electric  iron,  $4.  .50  to  $6.00. 

CLOTHES  BASKET.    It  should  be  light  and  easily  handled. 

Cost,  Wicker,  j^c. 

A  CLOTHES  LINE,  if  of  rope,  must  be  kept  clean  by  occa- 
sionally washing  it.  If  stationary,  it  must  be  wiped  with  a 
damp  cloth  before  using,  whether  rope  or  wire.  Rope  line, 
if  brought  into  the  house  after  use,  must  be  kept  in  a  clean 
place,  free  from  dust. 

Cost,  Rope,  6$c.  (looft.) 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 


35 


MRS.   POTTS  IRON 


COMMON     IRON 


POLISHER 


1^  J 

FLOUNCE     IRON 


GAS     IRON 


ELECTRIC  IRON 


36  Approved  Methods  for  Homz  Laundering 

CLOTHES  PINS,  the  ordinary  wooden  ones,  must  be  washed 
occasionally  to  keep  them  clean,  and  must  always  be  stored 
in  a  clean,  dry  place.  If  in  a  clothes-pin  apron,  fold  the  top 
over  the  pocket  and  put  on  a  shelf. 

Cost,  TOO  for  loc. 

A  CLOTHES-PIN  APRON  will  form  a  bag  for  storing  the 
clothes  pins,  as  well  as  a  convenient  pocket  for  them  when 
needed.  To  make  apron,  take  a  piece  of  bed  ticking  or 
something  equally  strong,  have  material  half  a  yard  wide 
and  three-quarters  of  a  yard  long.  Turn  up  one-quarter  of 
a  yard  on  the  outside  for  a  pocket,  bind  the  pocket  and  the 
sides  of  the  apron  with  tape,  tack  the  pocket  in  the  middle, 
and  put  the  apron  on  a  belt. 

Cost,  loc.  to  2oc. 

A  WHISK  BROOM  for  sprinkling  clothes,  is  desirable,  and 
works  best  if  the  broom  is  on  one  side  only  of  the  handle. 

Cost,  2^c. 

SCISSORS. 

Cost,  2$c.  and  upward. 

A  FRINGE  BRUSH,  to  straighten  fringe,  is  made  with  bris- 
tles on  a  slant. 

Cost,  2$c.  to  8oc. 

A  SOFT  BRUSH  for  cleaning  spots  on  flannel. 

Cost,  250. 

An  old  TOOTH-BRUSH,  for  taking  out  stains. 

A  medicine  dropper,  for  taking  out  stains. 

Cost,  5c. 

A  FLANNEL  BAG,  for  straining  rice  starch,  is  made  of  a 
light  quality  of  flannel,  usually  with  cotton  warp.  A  piece 
about  15  inches  square  is  folded  from  corner  to  corner,  mak- 


Appr&ved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 39 

and  makes  the  work  of  washing  easier,  but  only  white  clothes 
can  be  soaked.  It  is  not  wise  to  soak  all  kinds  of  clothes 
together.  If  three  tubs  are  available,  use  one  for  table  linen, 
one  for  bed  and  body  linen,  and  one  for  the  soiled  towels 
and  cloths.  These  last  should  be  soaked,  even  if  the  rest 
are  not.  The  table  linen  will  need  soaking  least  of  all .  Wet 
the  clothes,  rub  soap  solution  on  the  soiled  parts,  fold  and 
roll  each  piece  by  itself,  pack  in  a  tub,  cover  with  warm, 
soapy  water,  and  let  them  stand  overnight.  By  doing  this, 
the  dirt  from  soiled  parts  will  not  get  into  the  clean  parts. 

TUESDAY. 

1.  Light  fire  and  heat  water. 

2.  Make  soap  solution. 

3.  Do  washing.      (Special  order  of  washing  will  be 

discussed  later.) 

4.  Sprinkle  and  roll  clothes. 
WEDNESDAY. 

1.  Iron  and  bake. 

2.  Do  thick  starching. 
THURSDAY 

Finish  ironing. 
FRIDAY. 

Put  house  in  order. 
SATURDAY. 

Bake  and  plan  for  Sunday. 

ORDER  OF  DAY'S  WORK   OUTLINED 

{Details  are  given  on  following  pages} 

TUESDAY. 

i .  Heat  water. 


40  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

2.  Make  soap  solution. 

3.  Wash  flannels  or  silk  underwear.     These  require 

no  boiling  and  only  warm  water,  and,  if  rinsed 
and  hung  out  at  once,  will  be  dry  before  the  line 
is  needed  for  other  things. 

4.  Wash  stockings. 

5.  Using  warm,  clean  suds,  wash  cleanest  things  first: 

Table  linen, 
Bed  linen, 
Towels, 
Body  linen, 
Handkerchiefs, 
Soaked  clothes. 

Make  fresh  suds  whenever  necessary.  It  is  a  mis- 
take to  think  you  can  wash  clothes  clean  in  dirty 
water. 

6.  Boil.     Put  clothes  into  cold  water  with  soap  solu- 

tion. Let  them  come  slowly  to  the  boiling  point, 
then  let  them  boil  for  ten  minutes.  The  longer 
they  are  coming  to  the  boil  the  better. 

7.  Rinse  in  two  or  three  waters.     The  more  waters, 

the  whiter  and  cleaner  the  clothes. 

8.  Blue.     Shake  out  each  piece  and  put  through  the 

bluing  water.  Never  allow  clothes  to  stand  in 
bluing  water,  or  they  will  become  streaked. 

9.  Starch  whatever  needs  thin  starch. 

10.  Hang  out,  putting  pieces  of  a  kind  together,  and 

have  the  threads  of  the  cloth  straight. 

1 1 .  Wash  colored  clothes. 

12.  Take  down,  piece  by  piece.     Never  crush  clothes 

into  a  basket. 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  41 

13.    Dampen  and  roll  up. 

WASHING  OF  LINEN  AND  COTTON 
WHITE  CLOTHES 

Heat  water  in  boiler. 

Place  tub  on  bench  and  rubbing  board  in  place.  Be  sure 
that  both  are  clean. 

Pour  warm  water  into  tub. 

Add  soap  solution  and  have  some  near  by. 

Take  cleanest  clothes  first,  soaked  ones -last. 

Rubbing  is  necessary  for  soiled  clothes.  Bench  and  board 
should  be  of  the  right  height,  so  that  the  arms,  rather  than 
the  back,  will  do  the  work.  Rub  soap  or  soap  solution  on 
the  articles,  drop  it  to  the  foot  of  the  board,  hold  the  goods 
firmly  with  both  hands,  but  in  such  a  way  that  the  cloth, 
not  the  hands,  will  get  the  benefit  of  the  rubbing.  While 
rubbing  up  and  down  the  board  gradually  gather  the  cloth 
into  the  hands,  then  turn  the  article  and  rub  the  other  side 
in  the  same  way.  Soiled  parts  may  need  extra  soap  and 
rubbing.  Garments  should  be  left  wrong-side  out,  to  pro- 
tect the  right  side  from  dust,  etc.,  while  drying.  Take  fresh 
suds  whenever  water  becomes  dirty.  Delicate  fabrics  should 
be  rubbed  between  the  hands,  the  fleshy  parts  of  the  thumb 
being  employed  instead  of  the  board. 

Put  clothes  through  a  carefully  adjusted  clean  wringer. 
Wringing  by  hand  is  not  only  hard  work,  but  it  strains 
the  cloth.  When  using  the  wringer,  fasten  it  firmly  in  a 
convenient  place,  adjust  the  screws  to  bring  the  rolls  close 
together,  and  fold  the  cloth  so  that  it  will  be  even  in  thick- 
ness when  going  through  the  machine.  Be  sure  to  fold  all 
buttons  and  hooks  inside  the  garment  and  turn  the  wringer 


42  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

slowly.  For  blankets  or  heavy  material  the  wringer  must 
be  loosely  adjusted. 

Second  suds  is  usually  necessary.  Shake  out  clothes 
from  wringer  and  drop  into  fresh,  warm  suds.  When  the 
tub  is  partly  filled,  look  over  clothes  for  spots  that  may 
need  rubbing;  then  wring  again  into  a  clean  basket  or  pail. 
The  clothes  are  now  ready  for 

Boiling.  Clothes  should  be  clean  before  they  are  boiled, 
but  if  any  soiled  or  yellow  parts  have  not  yielded  to  rubbing, 
put  soap  on  them  before  they  go  into  the  boiler.  Half  fill 
the  boiler  with  cold  soft  water  and  enough  soap  solution  to 
make  a  light  lather.  Shake  out  each  piece  and  drop  it  into 
the  water.  All  white  clothes  should  be  boiled ,  and  the  best 
results  are  obtained  when  there  is  a  large  quantity  of  water 
and  the  boiler  is  but  half  full  of  clothes.  Results  are  decided- 
ly best  when  the  clothes  take  a  long  time  to  reach  the  boil- 
ing point  and  boil  about  ten  minutes.  A  clean  stick  is 
necessary  for  handling  the  hot  clothes.  If  the  clothes  grow 
yellow  in  boiling,  it  may  be  due  to  a  poor  quality  of  soap, 
water  containing  iron,  or  poor  washing.  The  color  given 
by  dark  resin  soap  may  be  taken  out  by  kerosene.  This 
should  be  used  only  occasionally  and  in  the  proportion  of  two 
tablespoonfuls  to  a  boiler  of  clothes.  Boiling  should  not  be 
omitted  or  slighted.  The  germs  that  make  bad-smelling 
clothes  are  easily  killed  by  boiling.  Disease  germs  may 
need  longer  boiling — an  hour  at  least,  or  several  boilings; 
but  this  is  usually  done  under  a  doctor' s  directions. 

After  the  white  clothes  have  been  boiled  (and  clean,  cold 
water  should  be  used  for  each  new  boilerf ul)  the  lamp  cloths 
may  go  into  the  hot  water  without  previous  washing,  kero- 
sene being  the  agent  that  cleanses  them.  They  must  be  well 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  43 

rinsed  to  get  rid  of  the  kerosene  smell,  and  for  this  purpose 
hot  water  is  better  than  cold. 

Rinsing  is  very  important,  for  clothes  must  be  free  from 
soap  before  bluing,  especially  if  you  use  the  liquid  blue.  Lift 
the  clothes  slowly  out  of  the  boiler  into  a  clean  pail  or  dish- 
pan,  and  drain  them  to  get  rid  of  the  soapy  water  before 
dropping  them  into  the  rinsing  water.  Use  soft  water  for 
the  first  rinsing,  then  hard  water  if  color  of  rain  water  is  not 
good.  The  first  rinsing  water  should  be  warm,  or  the  soapy 
curd  will  harden  on  the  clothes,  and  it  may  be  necessary  to 
rub  to  get  it  off.  A  second,  and  even  a  third,  rinsing  water 
is  desirable.  It  is  careless  rinsing  that  leaves  clothes  a  bad 
color,  and  no  amount  of  bluing  will  cover  it  up.  Use  the 
wringer  for  rinsing  and  bluing  waters — in  fact,  whenever 
possible. 

Bluing.  We  have  grown  to  like  clothes  of  a  blue-white 
color.  The  more  sunshine  and  fresh  air,  the  less  blue  is 
needed.  No  rule  or  proportion  can  be  given  for  bluing. 
The  quantity  to  be  used  must  be  regulated  by  the  color  and 
the  amount  of  clothes  to  be  blued.  Often  more  blue  must 
be  added,  or  a  fresh  water  made.  Tie  the  solid  blue  in  a 
thick  cloth,  flannel  preferred,  wet  it,  and  squeeze  out.  Make 
a  strong  solution  of  bluing  in  hot  water,  using  a  dipper  or 
small  pan  to  hold  it  in,  and  from  this  add  what  is  needed  to 
the  tub  of  water.  Take  a  little,  of  the  solution  in  the  palm 
of  the  hand  to  test  it.  It  should  be  of  a  pale  blue  color. 
Hard  water  may  be  used  for  bluing  if  color  of  soft  is  not 
good.  When  bluing  water  is  right  in  color,  stir  it  up  and 
use  at  once.  Remember  that  if  it  stands  the  solid  blue  will 
settle,  and  clothes  that  touch  the  bottom  or  sides  of  the  tub 
will  become  streaked  with  blue.  •  Shake  out  each  article  and 


44  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

drop  it  into  the  bluing  water;  then  very  soon  wring  it  out 
and  drop  it  into  a  clean  basket.  Unstarched  clothes  are  now 
ready  for  the  line.  Clothes  requiring  thick  or  raw  starch 
should  also  go  onto  the  line  to  get  the  sun  and  air. 

Starching  comes  next  for  those  clothes  requiring  thin  starch: 
aprons,  shirt-waists,  the  trimming  of  underwear,  etc.  Make 
the  starch  according  to  directions  given  on  page  23.  The 
amount  of  starch  needed  depends  upon  the  number  of  gar- 
ments to  be  starched.  Those  that  should  be  stiffest  must  be 
starched  first.  Dry  or  thick  materials  take  up  more  starch 
than  wet  or  thin  ones,  and  the  starch  may  need  to  be  thinned 
with  water  for  some  garments.  When  only  part  of  a  gar- 
ment is  to  be  starched,  gather  that  part  into  the  hand  and 
dip  it  into  the  starch,  rub  it  well,  then  squeeze  out  the  extra 
starch.  This  must  be  done  by  hand,  the  rest  of  the  gar- 
ment being  held  out  of  the  way.  The  starched  pieces  are 
hung  out  with  the  rest. 

Drying.  Sunshine  and  fresh  air  are  so  valuable  in  bleach- 
ing and  purifying  clothes  that  we  cannot  afford  to  dry 
clothes  indoors  if  we  can  control  a  bit  of  outdoors.  To  aid 
in  the  bleaching,  put  clothes  out  without  wringing,  or  let 
them  lie  on  the  grass  and  moisten  them  frequently. 

The  line  must  be  wiped  with  a  damp  cloth,  and  the  clothes- 
pin bag,  which  is  also  an  apron,  must  be  tied  on.  In  cold 
weather  the  laundress  should  protect  herself  with  a  sweater 
or  short  jacket,  a  hood,  and  white  mittens.  Hang  each  piece 
so  that  the  threads  of  the  material  are  straight  and  the  gar- 
ment is  as  nearly  as  possible  in  the  shape  desired  when  ready 
to  use  again.  This  helps  greatly  to  simplify  the  rest  of  the 
work,  and,  if  ironing  for  every  piece  is  impossible,  you  will 
have  straight,  sweet,  sun-dried  clothes  to  wear  or  use,  with- 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  45 

out  any  further  work  except  folding.  Many  people  prefer 
the  odor  of  sun-dried  clothes,  and  if  the  wind  whips  out  the 
wrinkles,  they  are  very  acceptable.  Ribbed  underwear, 
stockings,  towels,  and  often  sheets  and  pillowcases,  can  be 
finished  in  this  way  when  economy  in  laundry  work  must 
be  practiced — but  always  the  ribbed  underwear.  Hang 
pieces  of  a  kind  together  and  place  hems  well  over  the  line 
before  pinning.  Hems  rather  than  selvages  should  go  over 
the  line.  Consider  how  things  will  dry  quickly,  and  never 
let  water  run  into  gathers  or  pockets,  or  have  puckers  and 
corners  to  stretch  out  and  straighten  later.  When  clothes 
are  dry,  take  them  down  carefully,  shake  them  free  from 
dust  and  possible  insects,  and  fold  them  lightly  (never  crush 
them)  into  the  basket. 

Dampening  or  sprinkling  is  usually  done  the  last  thing 
at  night.  Cover  the  table  with  a  clean  cloth,  fill  a  basin 
with  warm  water,  and  use  a  clean  whisk  broom  for  sprink- 
ling. The  whisk  should  be  kept  for  this  purpose  only. 
A  patent  sprinkler  may  be  used,  or  the  hand,  but  the  drops 
should  always  be  small.  Sprinkle  each  large  piece,  fold 
sides  and  ends  into  the  middle,  then  roll  lightly.  Lay  small 
pieces  together  before  rolling.  Linen  should  be  very  damp. 
Pack  all  the  rolls  into  the  basket  and  cover  tightly.  Sprinkle 
only  what  can  be  ironed  the  next  day.  If  kept  damp  too 
long,  in  hot  weather  especially,  the  clothes  may  mildew. 

Ironing  is  the  finish  of  good  laundry  work  and  the  test  of 
the  laundress.  It  is  done  to  make  clothes  smooth,  to  make 
them  feel  better  and  stay  clean  longer.  Have  ready  an 
ironing  table  or  board,  tightly  covered  with  a  blanket  and  a 
clean  ironing  sheet,  an  iron  stand,  and  clean  irons — and  to 
keep  the  irons  clean  and  the  sheet  unsoiled,  have  at  hand 


46  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

beeswax  in  a  cloth,  a  piece  of  old  cloth,  and  a  piece  of  clean 
paper,  folded  three  or  four  times,  to  try  the  irons  on.  To 
moisten  the  clothes  if  they  become  dry,  there  should  be  a 
bowl  of  clean  water  and  a  clean,  soft  cloth.  A  large  piece  of 
paper  may  be  spread  on  the  floor  to  protect  any  pieces  that 
may  hang  to  the  floor.  If  the  irons  are  heated  by  gas,  they 
must  be  wiped  off  several  times  while  heating,  else  the 
moisture  that  collects  on  the  cold  iron  will  form  rust  and  soil 
the  clothes.  A  laundress's  test  for  a  hot  iron  is  to  hold  it 
near  her  cheek  for  a  few  seconds.  If  too  hot  for  this,  it  is 
too  hot  to  use.  But  it  is  better  to  try  the  iron  on  a  piece  of 
old  cloth.  Another  test  is  to  touch  the  bottom  of  the  iron 
with  a  wet  finger;  if  it  hisses,  it  is  hot — the  shorter  the  hiss, 
the  hotter  the  iron. 

Shake  or  stretch  the  article  to  be  ironed  into  shape  and 
place  on  board,  having  threads  of  cloth  straight.  Iron  with 
right  hand  from  right  to  left,  using  the  left  hand  to  arrange 
the  material,  but  occasionally  iron  with  the  left  hand.  As 
the  material  is  ironed,  bring  it  over  the  table  or  board  toward 
you.  First  iron  the  part  that  will  wrinkle  least,  leaving  the 
plain,  straight  parts  until  the  last.  Ruffles  and  trimming 
should  be  ironed  first.  Lace  must  be  stretched  into  shape  be- 
fore ironing  and  again  afterward,  to  soften  it.  Best  results 
are  attained  when  the  iron  follows  the  long  warp  thread  of  the 
material.  The  cloth  should  be  left  dry,  especially  bands, 
hems,  and  seams,  or  they  will  wrinkle.  Linen  must  be  very 
wet,  and  must  be  ironed  with  a  heavy  iron  until  perfectly 
dry.  This  gives  a  smooth,  glossy  surface  and  firmness  to 
the  material.  For  heavy  materials  use  heavy  irons;  for  thin 
materials,  lighter  irons,  and  for  gathers,  a  narrow,  pointed 
iron.  Iron  quickly  with  an  iron  hot,  yet  not  hot  enough  to 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  47 

scorch.  If  the  material  becomes  dry  or  soiled,  dampen  or 
rub  it  with  a  soft  cloth. 

Folding  does  not  improve  the  appearance  of  articles,  but  it 
is  necessary  in  order  to  store  things  and  keep  them  from 
mussing.  In  general,  all  pieces  should  be  folded  several 
times  lengthwise,  then  softly  crosswise,  until  of  convenient 
shape  for  handling.  The  trimming,  if  any,  should  show, 
and  usually  it  governs  the  shape  of  the  folded  garment. 

Airing  is  necessary  to  perfectly  dry  the  clothes;  the  clothes 
should  hang  over  night  on  the  bars,  and  be  sorted,  mended, 
and  put  away  the  next  day.  Damp  clothes  are  a  menace  to 
health.  Clothes  should  be  aired  in  clean,  pure  air,  that  they 
may  smell  sweet  and  be  free  from  dust. 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  SPECIAL 
ARTICLES 

TABLK  Cloths  must  be  freed  from  stains  before  washing, 
and  must  be  shaken  and  hung  straight  on  the  line,  the 
selvage  folded  six  inches  over  at  least ;  the  cloths 
may  be  doubled — there  will  be  less  chance  for  them  to  whip  out 
at  the  corners.  Fold  several  times  when  taking  from  the  line 
and  never  crush  into  the  basket.  If  the  directions  for  hang- 
ing linen  straight  are  followed  there  will  be  nothing  further 
to  do,  but  if  the  linen  has  dried  crooked  and  is  stiff,  it  must  be 
straightened  after  it  is  dampened.  For  this,  two  people  are 
needed,  one  at  each  end,  to  shake  and  stretch  it  into  shape. 
Let  each  person  gather  the  cloth  into  her  hands  just  below 
the  hem;  hold  the  selvages  tightly  with  the  little  fingers,  the 
rest  hold  loosely ;  then,  with  both  hands  held  high  and  close 
together,  at  a  signal  throw  the  hands  quickly  down  and  out. 
Repeat  this  several  times  if  necessary,  then  fold  selvages  to- 
gether, right  side  out.  When  ready  to  iron,  lay  hems  on 
table  with  the  rest  of  the  cloth  at  the  back  of  the  table  to 
keep  it  damp,  iron  one  side  the  full  length  of  cloth  until 
only  partly  dry,  then  the  other  side  until  perfectly  dry.  A 
hot,  heavy  iron  is  necessary,  and  irons  must  be  changed 
often.  This  method  will  give  you  a  firm,  glossy  linen  that 
will  hold  its  shape  and  look  well.  If  it  is  possible  to  store 
it  with  only  one  long  fold,  it  will  look  better;  if  not,  fold 
again  and  iron  fold  in.  Never  press  crossfolds.  Hang  the 
cloth  to  dry,  and  fold  it  very  lightly  when  ready  to  put 

(48) 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  49 

away.  All  folds  may  be  put  on  the  right  side  of  the  cloth 
in  the  following  manner :  After  ironing  both  sides,  open  it 
and  bring  selvages  together  in  the  one  middle  fold  on  the 
wrong  side,  iron  the  new  folds,  and  lay  sides  together  to  air 
and  put  away. 

Very  old  or  thin  linen  may  need  the  least  bit  of  starch  in 
it.  One  cupful  of  thin  starch  to  half  a  pail  of  bluing  water 
will  be  enough.  The  linen  will  be  a  little  firm  and  glossy, 
but  it  must  not  show  that  it  has  been  starched. 

Napkins  also  must  be  very  damp,  and  must  be  ironed  until 
dry.  Stretch  into  shape,  and  place  on  board  right  side  up 
and  hem  in  front  of  you.  Iron  both  sides,  then  lay  hems 
together  square  and  true  and  make  two  lengthwise  folds, 
then  two  crosswise  folds,  and  iron  all  folds  in.  The  test  of 
a  well-ironed  napkin  is  smooth,  glossy  linen  and  square,  true 
corners,  all  even.  Napkins  may  be  ironed  double,  like  a 
tablecloth.  If  the  napkin  is  small,  it  may  be  folded  into 
thirds  like  a  fan,  first  one  way,  then  the  other.  Embroider- 
ed napkins  must  be  ironed  on  the  wrong  side,  over  several 
thicknesses  of  flannel,  to  bring  out  the  design,  then  the  rest 
of  the  napkin  must  be  ironed  dry  and  glossy.  The  em- 
broidery must  appear  on  the  outside  when  folded.  Fringe 
must  be  whipped  and  brushed  straight,  never  starched. 

Carving-  cloths,  tray  cloths,  centre  pieces  and  doilies  should 
have  hems  and  corners  true.  They  are  never  folded,  but 
should  be  loosely  rolled  if  too  large  to  lie  flat  in  a  drawer. 

Towels,  if  of  damask,  are  ironed  on  both  sides,  then  folded 
twice  lengthwise.  If  of  coarser  weave,  iron  one  side,  then 
iron  the  other  side  as  you  fold  it.  Bath  towels  should  never 
be  ironed. 

Handkerchiefs  are   made  very  damp,  ironed   smooth  arid 


50  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

straight  with  a  hot  iron,  and  folded  as  a  napkin  is  folded. 
Embroidery  should  be  ironed  on  the  wrong  side,  appearing 
on  the  outside  when  handkerchief  is  folded. 

Sheets  and  Pillowcases  are  sometimes  made  of  linen  but 
more  often  of  cotton.  If  trimmed,  they  will  require  starch- 
ing. The  whole  or  the  trimmed  part  of  the  pillowcase  and 
one  quarter  of  a  yard  from  the  edge  of  the  wide-hem  end  of 
the  sheet,  may  be  dipped  into  thin  starch.  The  starched 
parts  must  be  thoroughly  dampened  and  ironed  smooth  and 
dry  with  a  hot  iron.  Turn  the  pillowcase  when  ready  to 
iron  it.  See  that  the  corners  are  pulled  out  and  that  the 
cloth  is  straight.  Iron  trimming,  then  one  side  of  the  pil- 
lowcase, and,  as  you  fold  it,  iron  the  other  side.  All  folds 
are  lengthwise.  Shake  the  sheet  as  you  do  the  tablecloth. 
If  unstarched,  this  may  be  done  before  dampening.  Fold 
once  lengthwise,  right  side  out,  then  crosswise ;  bring  the 
hems  together  and  sprinkle  them,  leaving  the  rest  of  the 
sheet  dry.  Fold  the  dampened  parts  together  and  roll  up. 
Use  a  heavy  iron  for  sheets — one  weighing  eight  or  ten 
pounds  is  best.  Iron  the  dampened  parts  separately  and  the 
dry  parts  together.  Fold  lengthwise  and  hang  to  air. 

Nightgowns  have  only  the  trimming  at  neck  and  sleeves 
starched.  Sprinkle  the  entire  garment,  and  fold  starched 
parts  and  hem  inside  before  rolling.  When  ready  to  iron, 
turn  garment  on  right  side  and  iron  trimming  first.  Then 
lay  body  lengthwise  of  board  or  table,  iron  front,  then  back 
— or  put  it  on  the  board  and  iron  a  single  thickness  at  a 
time.  Fasten  at  throat,  and  fold  the  body  to  width  of  yoke, 
making  a  long,  narrow  strip,  then  fold  crosswise  to  the  depth 
of  yoke.  L,et  sleeve  ends  show  at  sides  of  yoke. 

Drawers  have  only  the  trimming  starched.     Iron  band  or 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 


FOLDING     OF     NIGHT     DRESSES 


52 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 


1. 


3.  4. 

FOLDING   OF   DRAWERS 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 


53 


1. 


--J1- 

2. 


THE   FOLDING  OF  CORSET   COVERS 


54 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 


I 


FOLDING   OF  CHEMISES 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  55 

yoke  first,  then  trimming  and  then  body  of  garment.     Fold 
to  show  trimming  only. 

Corset  Covers  need  thin  starch  all  over.  Dampen,  fold 
right  side  in,  and  roll.  Iron  trimming  first,  straighten  each 
section  of  garment  and,  if  a  fitted  corset  cover,  lay  seams  on 
the  edge  of  the  board  nearest  you.  Iron  each  section 
smooth,  having  threads  of  material  straight.  If  this  is 
carefully  done,  the  garment  will  fit  and  look  as  well  as  when 
new.  Fasten  at  throat,  and  fold  to  show  trimming. 

Petticoats  need  to  be  starched  only  at  the  bottom,  but  a 
little  thin  starch  will  make  the  top  iron  more  easily.  Gather 
the  hem  and  trimming  into  the  hands  and  put  into  the  starch. 
Rub  them  a  little,  so  that  the  starch  may  be  evenly  distribut- 
ed, wring  out  well  by  hand  (or  the  wringer  may  be  used), 
shake,  and  hang  straight  to  dry.  Dampen  well  and,  when 
ready  to  iron,  turn  onto  the  right  side.  Iron  band  or  yoke 
first,  then  ruffles.  Keep  the  damp  part  in  a  bunch,  that  it 
may  not  dry  out.  Put  skirt  onto  board,  hem  to  the  right. 
Iron  hem  first,  then  between  ruffles,  and  lastly  the  body  of 
each  section  lying  on  the  board.  Thoroughly  dry  each 
part.  Use  a  damp  cloth  freely  for  parts  that  are  soiled  or 
too  dry  to  iron  smooth.  Take  skirt  from  the  board  and 
hang  to  air.  Fold  by  laying  the  middles  of  the  back  and 
front  together,  then  fold  each  half  back  upon  itself  fan-like, 
making  a  long  strip,  which  now  fold  loosely  from  band  to 
trimming. 

Shirts,  Collars,  and  Cuffs  require  thick  starch,  special 
directions  for  the  use  of  which  will  be  found  on  page  22. 

Shirt-waists,  if  colored,  must  be  carefully  washed  accord- 
ing to  directions  given  for  '  'colored  clothes.' '  Dip  the  shirt- 
waist into  thin  starch;  wring  out,  arid  hang  waist  to  dry  in 


56  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

the  shape  in  which  it  should  be  worn.  If  the  material  is  hea- 
vy, no  starch  will  be  needed,  except,  possibly,  for  neckband, 
pleat,  and  cuffs.  If  the  waist  is  thin  or  fancy,  with  soft 
cuffs,  it  will  need  no  further  starching.  If  neckband  and 
cuffs  are  to  be  stiff,  thick  starch  may  be  rubbed  in  when 
shirt  collars  and  cuffs  are  starched ;  or  raw  starch  may  be 
made  when  ready  to  dampen  waist,  and  the  neckband,  front 
pleat  perhaps,  and  cuffs  may  be  dipped  into  it,  rubbed  well 
and  squeezed  nearly  dry.  Sprinkle  the  rest  of  the  waist, 
fold  and  roll.  When  embroidery  or  design  of  material  is  to 
be  brought  out,  iron  on  wrong  side.  When  plain,  take 
polisher  or  ordinary  iron  of  small  size  for  the  neck  and  cuffs. 
Best  work  can  always  be  done  with  the  part  to  be  ironed 
straight  and  near  to  the  front  edge  of  the  table,  right  under 
the  ironer.  Iron  the  neckband  and  cuffs  first  on  the  right 
side,  then  on  the  wrong,  then  again  on  the  right  side  to  dry 
and  polish.  Use  the  ordinary  iron  for  the  rest  of  the  waist; 
fold  the  sleeve  at  seam  and  iron  on  top  side  nearly  to  fold. 
With  hand  inside  sleeve,  loosen  the  two  sides,  then  iron 
lower  side  of  sleeve.  With  hand  inside  again,  change  po- 
sition of  unironed  part  and  smooth  it  with  narrow  iron,  leav- 
ing no  crease  in  sleeve.  Place  small  -iron  inside  sleeve  at 
top,  and  smooth  gathers.  Do  this  also  at  cuffs  if  possible. 
If  sleeve  board  is  used,  these  directions  are  unnecessary. 
The  fronts  are  usually  ironed  next  and  the  back  last. 
Stretch  front  pleat  and  tucks  into  shape,  place  pleat  next 
you  on  the  board,  and  iron  until  perfectly  dry.  L,astly,  put 
iron  upon  seams  and  leave  them  perfectly  dry.  Smooth  all 
creases  and  hang  waist  to  air. 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  57 

THICK  STARCHING 

The  most  approved  way  of  stiffening  shirt  bosoms,  collars, 
and  cuffs,  is  by  the  use  of  thick,  boiled  starch.  Raw  starch 
carefully  used  will  produce  a  similar  result.  Make  thick 
starch  as  shown  on  page  22.  For  rubbing  in  starch,  use 
a  clean  table  or,  better  still,  stretch  over  the  table  a  heavy, 
damp  cloth,  and  fasten  it  securely  by  pins  or  strings.  On 
the  table  place  the  starch,  *a  bowl  of  water,  and  a  clean,  soft 
cloth. 

Dip  shirts  into  water  and  wring  as  dry  as  possible.  Have 
them  still  wrong  side  out,  shake  them  straight,  stretch  the 
neckband  or  collar  into  shape,  and  lay  it  upon  the  table 
wrong  side  up.  Rub  starch  into  it  with  the  hand,  especially 
on  seams  and  edges,  until  it  feels  full  of  starch.  Put  a  little 
starch  into  the  back  of  the  yoke,  Take  a  damp  cloth  and 
rub  off  lightly  any  extra  starch.  Stretch  the  bosom  into 
shape  and  place  it  on  the  table  wrong  side  up.  The  back  of 
the  shirt  will  lie  beneath  it.  On  the  bosom  lay  the  two  cuffs 
or  wristbands  straight  and  wrong  side  up.  Rub  starch  into 
the  cuffs  from  the  wrong  side  until  it  appears  on  the  right 
side  and  the  cuff  feels  full  of  starch.  Rub  off  any  extra 
starch  with  a  damp  cloth,  and  smooth  out  any  wrinkles  on 
the  right  side  of  the  cuff.  Rub  starch  into  the  bosom  the 
same  way,  "clear  it  off,"  turn  it  onto  the  right  side,  and 
work  out  all  wrinkles.  L,eave  all  parts  as  smooth  and  true 
as  you  wish  them  to  be  when  ironed.  Separate  the  back 
from  the  front,  hang  bosom  toward  the  fire,  have  neckband 
in  shape,  tab  turned  up,  and  cuffs  straight.  Allowing  parts 
to  dry  in  shape  makes  the  work  of  ironing  comparatively  easy. 
Treat  separate  collars  and  cuffs  in  the  same  way  as  the  shirt 
and  pin  them  onto  a  cloth,  or  string  them  together  to  dry. 


58  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

Thick  starch  work  is  never  dampened  by  sprinkling,  but 
by  contact  with  a  wet  cloth.  It  is  better  to  dampen  the 
clothes  overnight,  but  four  or  five  hours'  pressure  will  an- 
swer. Dip  the  lower  half  of  the  shirt  into  water  and  wring 
it  half  dry,  turn  half  of  the  wet  part  over  the  bosom  and 
half  over  the  back.  Place  the  cuffs  on  the  bosom,  fold  the 
sides  toward  the  centre,  and  roll  from  the  neck  down,  or, 
better  still,  place  one  shirt  upon  another,  and  over  all  a  cloth,, 
board  and  heavy  weight. 

To  iron  a  shirt you  need  an  ironing  table,  a  bosom  board, 
a  knife  to  clean  the  irons,  wax,  a  bowl  of  water,  a  clean 
cloth,  and  polishing,  as  well  as  ordinary  flat-irons.  Turn 
the  shirt  right  side  out,  double  the  back  in  the  middle  and 
iron  it  quickly  with  a  common  iron.  Iron  the  yoke. 
Straighten  the  cuffs,  and  with  a  polisher,  iron  first  the  wrong 
side  slightly,  then  the  right  side  until  dry  and  polished.  To 
polish  successfully,  great  pressure  must  be  used.  The 
weight  of  the  body  is  often  brought  down  upon  the  iron. 
Iron  the  sleeve  just  above  the  cuff.  Next,  iron  the  neckband 
on  the  wrong  side,  and  polish  the  inside  of  the  yoke,  because 
it  shows  when  the  shirt  is  folded.  Dry  and  polish  the  right 
side  of  the  band.  If  the  collar  is  attached  to  the  shirt,  iron 
it  first,  but  do  not  turn  it  over  until  you  are  ready  to  fold 
the  shirt,  then  fold  carefully  with  the  hand,  and  press  it 
with  the  iron  in  the  middle  of  the  back.  Put  shirt  on  bosom 
board.  If  the  shirt  is  open  in  front,  iron  the  upper  side 
first;  iron  lightly,  then  dry  and  polish.  Then  iron  the  lower 
side  of  the  bosom,  then  both  together  until  perfectly  dry. 
Be  sure  the  sides  are  of  equal  length  and  the  eyelet  holes 
coincide.  If  the  shirt  is  closed  in  front,  iron  the  side  near 
you  first,  then  the  pleat  in  the  middle,  raise  the  pleat  with  a. 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 


59 


FOLDING  OF  SHIRTS 


60  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

dull  knife.  L,astly,  iron  the  side  from  you,  working  toward 
the  outside  of  the  bosom.  Always  work  lightly  and  slowly 
at  first  until  the  part  begins  to  dry  out',  then  with  force  and 
faster,  to  dry  thoroughly  and  polish.  After  the  bosom,  iron 
the  cloth  next  to  it  and  the  tab.  Take  the  shirt  from  the 
bosom  board,  place  it,  front  down,  on  the  table,  iron  the 
back  of  the  sleeves,  turn  the  shirt,  iron  the  front  of  the 
sleeves  and  the  front  of  the  garment.  Fasten  the  neckband 
together,  lay  the  shirt  in  shape,  bosom  up,  and  iron  a  fold 
in  the  yoke  near  the  band.  Turn  the  shirt  over  and  fold 
sleeves  onto  the  back.  Next,  fold  body  of  garment  onto  the 
back,  making  a  strip  the  width  of  the  bosom.  Fold  this 
strip  to  size  of  bosom  and  hang  the  garment  to  air. 

Collars  and  Cuffs  are  ironed  with  the  polisher  first  lightly 
on  the  wrong  side,  then  on  the  right  side  to  dry  and  polish. 
Curl  them  when  quite  dry  with  a  common  iron,  and  turn  the 
corners  if  desired.  Before  curling,  warm  the  collar  with  the 
iron,  place  it  rightside  down,  and  hold  iron  in  right  hand  on 
the  end  of  collar  toward  you.  Take  that  end  in  your  left 
hand,  have  edge  of  iron  close  to  it  and,  as  the  iron  recedes, 
follow  it  closely  with  the  left  hand.  Do  this  several  times, 
and  from  both  ends,  until  the  collar  assumes  its  proper  shape. 
Practice  and  dexterity  only  will  make  an  expert  at  this 
work.  If  "  domestic  finish "  is  desired  for  linen,  the  gloss 
can  be  taken  off  with  a  damp  cloth.  Wring  the  cloth  as 
dry  as  possible  and  rub  lightly,  preferably  when  the  linen 
is  warm. 

A  damp  cloth  is  necessary  in  thick  starch  to  take  out 
wrinkles  or  remove  dirt.  Wring  the  cloth  very  dry  and 
work  lightly  with  it— pat  rather  than  rub.  Always  have 
clean  irons.  If*  the  iron  sticks,  it  may  be  dirty  or  too  cool. 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  61 

Never  return  an  iron  to  the  fire  -without  being  sure  that  it 
is  clean. 

CLEAR  STARCHING 

Thin  Muslins,  fine  Handkerchiefs,  and  Infants'  Caps  and 
Dresses  should  be  clear  starched.  A  very  thin  starch  is  used 
which  has  a  clear  appearance,  hence  the  name.  This  may 
be  made  from  corn  starch,  in  the  proportion  of  one  level 
tablespoonful  of  starch  to  one  quart  of  water.  Boil  ten 
minutes.  Rice  starch  is  even  better.  Make  according  to 
directions  given  on  page  23.  It  will  probably  be  necessary 
to  dip  a  bit  of  material  into  the  starch  and  iron  it  to  find  out 
when  the  starch  is  right.  The  muslin  should  be  as  stiff  as 
when  new,  never  stiff  enough  to  crack  and  rattle. 

Use  Ivory  Soap  for  all  fine  work — and  Ivory  Soap  solution 
is  better  still.  If  the  material  is  soiled,  soak  it,  then  wash 
it  very  carefully,  squeezing  rather  than  rubbing.  If  it  must 
be  rubbed,  lay  it  on  a  piece  of  white  cloth,  and  rub  both  to- 
gether between  the  hands.  Boil  it  in  a  bag  to  protect  the 
delicate  fabric;  or,  if  not  very  much  soiled,  pour  an  abun- 
dance of  absolutely  boiling  water  over  it  and  let  it  stand. 
Rinse  the  material  well,  blue  it,  and  put  it  into  the  thin,  hot 
starch.  Squeeze  it  out,  and  lay  it  between  cloths  for  a  few 
moments  to  absorb  the  moisture.  Shake  out  the  material, 
and  pat  or  clap  it  between  the  hands  until  it  is  dry  enough 
to  iron.  Pull  it  gently  into  shape,  put  it  on  the  table,  and 
iron  it  on  the  right  side  unless  it  is  embroidered.  The  em- 
broidery must  be  ironed  on  the  wrong  side  over  flannel,  and 
then  the  muslin  on  the  right.  Being  thin,  the  muslin  will 
dry  out  quickly.  Use  a  damp  cloth  freely,  and  leave  each 
part  dry,  smooth,  and  free  from  wrinkles. 


62  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

COLORED  CLOTHES 

The  work  of  the  dyer  has  improved  until  now  almost  all 
wash  goods  are  considered  fast  in  colors.  However,  this  does 
not  mean  that  they  may  be  treated  as  you  would  treat  white 
clothes.  The  dyes  are  of  two  kinds:  substantive,  those  that 
combine  with  the  material  to  be  dyed,  and  adjective,  those 
that  attach  themselves  to,  rather  than  combine  with,  the  ma- 
terial. To  the  former  class  belong  the  wools  and  silks;  to 
the  latter,  the  linens  and  cottons.  From  the  tough,  resistant 
character  of  the  linen  and  cotton  fibres,  we  can  understand 
that  they  will  not  readily  take  up  color  and  that,  if  they  do, 
they  will  part  with  it  easily.  Strong  soapsj  hot  water,  and 
even  sunshine  tend  to  weaken  their  color,  so  that  the  great- 
est care  must  be  used  in  washing  colored  clothes,  especially 
if  the  color  is  delicate.  We  know  that  most  reds,  pinks,  and 
blacks  are  fast,  but  we  are  never  sure  of  anything  until  we 
have  washed  a  sample  and  dried  it.  If  the  color  suffers,  try 
to  set  it  with  a  solution  of  salt,  white  vinegar,  borax,  alum, 
or  sugar  of  lead  (a  strong  poison).  These  may  be  used  in 
the  proportion  of  one  level  tablespoonful  of  any  one  of  them 
to  a  gallon  of  water.  None  but  a  "neutral"  soap  mu£t  be 
used,  and  sometimes  starch  water  rather  than  soap.  The 
starch  is  very,  very  thin,  and  is  used  as  you  would  use  suds. 
Ordinarily,  good  results  are  obtained  by  following  the  direc- 
tions given  below : 

Make  a  warm  suds  of  Ivory  Soap  and  water,  and  quickly 
wash,  rinse,  and  hang  out  to  dry  one  garment  at  a  time. 
Should  the  water  be  colored  by  the  goods,  take  fresh  water 
for  the  next  garment.  Never  rub  soap  on  the  goods,  nor 
the  goods  on  the  board — except  the  edges  of  the  hem  if  very 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  63 

much  soiled.  Squeeze  or  rub  it  gently  by  hand.  When 
clean,  rinse  it  several  times,  until  the  last  water  is  clear,  and 
use  acidified  water  if  necessary.  The  use  of  alum  water  will 
make  garments  less  inflammable.  If  you  want  to  strengthen 
a  blue,  use  bluing.  Starch  the  garment  at  once  in  thin 
starch,  after  turning  it  wrong  side  out;  shake  it  into  shape, 
and  hang  it  to  dry  in  the  shade.  When  dry,  dampen  and 
roll  up  the  garment,  but  only  a  short  time  before  ironing. 
Muslins,  prints,  and  ginghams  should  be  ironed  on  the  wrong 
side  whenever  possible,  as  it  makes  the  material  look  like  new. 

HOSIERY 

Merino,  or  ordinary  woolen  hose,  as  well  as  silk  hose,  must 
be  washed  according  to  directions  given  for  washing  flannels. 
Wash  black  or  colored  cotton  hose  in  clean  suds;  otherwise, 
white  particles  will  adhere  to  them.  If  the  fastness  of  the 
color  is  in  doubt,  wash  the  foot  first,  holding  the  leg  out  of 
the  water.  Rub  soap  carefully  on  the  foot,  wash  it,  put  in 
the  entire  stocking,  wash  quickly,  turn  it  wrong  side  out, 
wash,  rinse  and  wring  it,  stretch  and  shake  it  into  shape,  and 
hang  it  to  dry.  When  nearly  dry,  iron  on  the  wrong  side 
with  a  warm  (not  hot)  iron.  Put  the  hand  into  the  foot  of 
the  stocking  and,  as  you  draw  out  the  hand,  follow  with  the 
iron,  or  fold  the  stocking  at  the  seam  and  iron  flat.  If  stock- 
ings are  embroidered  the  design  must  have  no  fold  or  crease 
in  it. 

WOOLS 

Woolen  material  will  easily  shrink  if  carelessly  handled. 
(See  chapter  on  fibres  for  explanation  of  shrinking.)  A 
"neutral"  soap  must  be  used,  and  if  a  soap  claims  to  wash 
without  shrinking,  it  does  so  only  because  you  follow  care- 


64  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

fully  the  directions  that  come  with  the  soap.  Strong  soaps 
or  alkalies,  except  the  milder  ones — borax  and  ammonia — 
weaken  the  fibre  and  make  it  more  liable  to  shrink.  The 
rubbing  on  of  soap  of  any  kind  is  not  desirable,  because  you 
must  get  it  out,  and  it  may  require  the  rubbing  of  the  ma- 
terial, which  tends  more  than  anything  else  to  mat  the  wool 
and  shrink  the  garment.  Hot  water  and  then  cold  must  not 
be  used,  because  heating  expands  the  fibres,  and  as  they  lie 
so  close  together,  they  may  interlock;  then,  when  the  cold 
contracts  the  fibres,  they  cannot  unlock.  As  a  consequence, 
the  material  shrinks.  Extremes  of  temperature,  then,  are  to 
be  avoided. 

Shake  the  dust  out  of  the  flannel.  Make  warm  suds  with 
Ivory  Soap  solution.  Have  it  about  120°  Fahrenheit,  that 
is,  so  the  hands  can  very  comfortably  be  held  in  the  water. 
If  the  garment  is  quite  soiled,  add  a  half  tablespoonful  of 
household  ammonia  for  each  gallon  of  water,  and  let  the  gar- 
ment soak  for  ten  minutes.  Draw  the  garment  through  the 
hands,  work  it  up  and  down,  and  squeeze  it,  but  do  not  rub 
soap  on  it  or  rub  it  on  the  board.  Put  it  through  the  wringer, 
turn  the  garment  wrong  side  out  and  put  it  through  a  second 
suds  the  same  temperature  as  the  first.  If  any  soiled  spot 
does  not  yield  to  this  treatment,  lay  it  upon  the  table  or  other 
smooth  surface,  hold  it  straight,  and  rub  it  briskly  with  a 
small  brush.  If  necessary,  use  a  little  soap  solution  on  the 
brush.  Rinse  the  garment  quickly  through  several  waters 
of  the  same  temperature  as  the  first  water.  If  hard  water  is 
used  for  rinsing,  soften  it  with  a  very  little  soap  solution. 
Rinse  flannel  until  the  water  is  clear.  Put  it  through  the 
wringer  or  squeeze  the  water  out;  do  not  twist  it.  Shake  it 
or  hang  it  out  to  dry  where  it  is  warm.  Never  where  it  is 


Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering  65 

so  hot  that  the  garment  will  steam,  or  where  it  is  cold. 
Guard  against  extremes  of  temperature.  Stretch  the  gar- 
ment into  shape  as  it  dries.  This  is  especially  true  of  ribbed 
underwear,  which  also  does  not  need  to  be  ironed.  Press 
flannel  when  nearly  dry,  on  the  wrong  side,  until  perfectly 
dry,  using  a  moderately  warm  iron.  Never  have  the  iron 
so  hot  that  the  flannel  will  steam,  and  press,  rather  than  rub 
it.  Closely  twisted  and  woven  wool  will  shrink  less  than 
loosely  woven  materials. 

Woolen  dress  goods  of  any  kind  must  be  washed  as  flannels 
are.  Try  first  a  sample,  to  see  what  treatment  is  necessary. 
Set  the  color,  if  it  runs,  and  work  quickly.  Ammonia  will 
usually  brighten  black  goods.  Wring  loosely  from  one  water 
to  the  other,  and  if  the  material  wrinkles  badly,  take  it  from 
the  last  water  without  wringing,  and  hang  it  by  the  edge  to 
dry.  Put  over  the  ironing  sheet  a  cover  of  cotton  cloth, 
fast  in  color  and  about  the  color  of  the  material  to  be  ironed. 
While  yet  damp,  put  the  material  on  the  table  wrong  side  up, 
and  iron  till  perfectly  dry,  with  a  warm  (not  hot)  iron.  Air 
the  material,  then  roll,  but  do  not  fold  it,  and  it  will  look 

like  new. 

BLANKETS 

Select  a  warm,  sunny,  breezy  day  for  washing  blankets. 
First  shake  the  dust  out,  then  soak  the  blankets  in  warm 
suds  of  Ivory  Soap  for  thirty  minutes.  Work  them  up  and 
down  in  the  water,  squeeze  them  against  the  sides  of  the 
tub,  and  put  them  through  the  wringer,  loosely  adjusted,  into 
another  strong  suds  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  first.  Stir 
about  and  soak  for  ten  minutes,  stretch  soiled  parts  over  a 
smooth  surface,  and  rub  with  a  brush,  using  a  little  of  a  so- 
lution of  Ivory  Soap  cut  up  and  dissolved  in  hot  water. 


66  Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

Rinse  in  several  warm  waters — or  until  both  blanket  and 
water  are  clean — then  hang  to  dry  in  the  open  air.  Hang 
the  blankets  so  that  they  will  dry  straight.  When  perfectly 
dry,  rub  the  surface  with  a  soft  flannel  cloth  and  hang  them 
near  a  stove  or  in  a  warm  room  for  several  hours.  For  each 
pair  of  blankets  allow  a  half  cake  of  Ivory  Soap. 

SILKS 

Silk  fibre  is  smooth  and  shiny,  and  for  best  results  re- 
quires the  same  treatment  in  the  laundry  as  wool.  If 
rubbed  hard,  the  fibre  is  broken  and  the  shiny  effect  lost. 
It  should  never  be  boiled. 

Wash  silk  carefully  in  warm  water,  with  Ivory  Soap  solu- 
tion in  it.  Soak  twenty  minutes  if  necessary,  and  take  fresh 
suds  for  the  washing.  Do  not  rub  silk  except  with  a  soft 
nail  brush  over  a  smooth  surface.  Rinse  in  several  warm 
waters  until  the  last  water  is  clear.  Place  between  dry 
towels  and  put  through  wringer  loosely  adjusted,  or  squeeze 
water  from  it  and  hang  to  dry  where  you  can  watch  it. 
When  nearly  dry,  iron  with  a  very  moderate  iron,  until  per- 
fectly dry.  If  the  iron  is  hot,  the  silk  will  be  stiff.  A  thin 
muslin  spread  over  the  silk  before  ironing  may  give  better 
results  when  material  is  thin.  If  silk  is  colored,  it  will  be 
better  to  try  a  sample,  and  to  set  it  as  you  would  colored 
cottons,  with  salt  or  vinegar. 

Silk  Crape,  or  silk  of  fancy  weave,  that  does  not  require 
ironing  may  be  taken  from  the  last  water  without  wringing, 
spread  straight  and  smooth  upon  a  clean  table  and  allowed 
to  dry  there.  It  will  look  like  new. 

Lay  Ribbons  out  smooth  upon  the  table  and  brush  them 
with  a  nail  brush  dipped  in  soapy  water.  Brush  both  sides. 


Approved  Methods  for  Home £a$nde.ring*    ;  J  /  J/j/>  \  ;>'& 

When  clean,  rinse  without  squeezing,  and  draw  through  the 
hands,  and  while  quite  wet,  spread  straight  and  true  upon  a 
clean,  smooth  surface  to  dry  or  iron  when  nearly  dry  under 
a  cloth. 

Wash  Chiffon  in  soapy  water,  rinse  carefully,  clap  dry, 
stretch  into  shape,  and  iron  on  the  wrong  side  with  a  cool 
iron. 

Wash  Silk-embroidered  Linen  in  Ivory  Soap  solution  and 
water,  rubbing  soiled  parts  with  a  brush.  Rinse  till  clear. 
If  color  is  inclined  to  run,  do  not  wring  but  lay  between  dry 
cloths  and  iron  immediately.  Always  iron  wrong  side  up 
over  several  thicknesses  of  flannel,  to  make  the  embroidery 
stand  out.  When  dry,  turn  it  onto  the  right  side  and  iron 
the  linen  between  the  embroidery. 

Silk-ribbed  Underwear  must  be  washed  in  warm  Ivory  Soap 
and  water,  to  which  a  tablespoonful  of  household  ammonia 
for  each  gallon  of  water  has  been  added.  It  may  be  soaked 
for  ten  minutes,  then  quickly  washed,  rinsed,  and  dried. 
Do  not  iron  it,  but  stretch  it  until  it  is  soft. 

Velvet  to  be  renewed  must  be  passed  over  steam  and 
brushed  lightly  against  the  nap  meanwhile.  A  device  can 
be  bought  to  attach  to  the  nose  of  the  teakettle,  or  steam 
can  be  produced  by  covering  an  inverted  hot  flatiron  with 
several  thicknesses  of  wet  cloth  over  which  the  velvet  is 

drawn. 

LACES 

Real  laces  are  rarely  washed,  because  they  thicken  slight- 
ly, and  require  very  careful  handling  to  make  them  appear 
like  new. 

Wash  White  Lace  in  \varm  water  with  Ivory  Soap  and  a 
little  ammonia.  Soak  it  for  an  hour,  then  use  fresh  water. 


68  /,\  £t>p,'cn>ed  Methods  for  Home  Laundering 

Do  not  rub,  but  squeeze  the  dirt  out.  If  the  lace  is  very 
yellow,  put  soapy  water  over  it  and  set  it  in  the  sun  for  a 
day  or  two.  When  it  is  clean,  rinse  well.  If  you  wish  the 
lace  cream  color,  add  strong  coffee  to  the  last  rinsing  water. 
If  you  wish  it  white,  add  a  little  bluing.  To  give  lace  the 
body  it  had  when  new,  stiffen  it  in  gum  arabic  water,  made 
by  dissolving  a  piece  of  gum  arabic  the  size  of  a  pea  in  one 
half  pint  of  boiling  water.  I^ay  the  lace  between  cloths  to 
absorb  the  moisture,  clap  it  until  nearly  dry,  pull  it  into 
shape,  and  pin  it  onto  flannel  straight  and  true.  Be  sure 
that  each  point  is  in  shape  and  that  every  loop  of  the  pearl 
edge  has  a  pin  to  hold  it  in  place. 

Wash  Black  Lace  in  one  cup  of  strong  coffee  to  which  one 
tablespoonful  of  ammonia  has  been  added.  Rinse  it  in  gum 
arabic  water,  clap  until  nearly  dry,  and  pin  it  into  shape  on 
flannel  or  iron  under  black  muslin  with  a  warm  (not  hot)  iron. 

Shake  and  brush  Lace  Curtains  to  remove  the  dust,  soak 
them  in  soapy  water  over  night.  Work  the  curtains  gently 
up  and  down  in  the  water  and  squeeze  them  between  the 
hands  to  get  the  dirt  out.  Put  them  into  clean  warm  suds 
with  ammonia  added,  and  keep  changing  the  water  until  the 
curtains  are  clean.  Never  wring  curtains  by  hand;  lay  them 
on  a  strip  of  cloth  and  put  carefully  through  the  wringer. 
Rinse  well  in  several  waters,  and  put  through  hot,  moderate- 
ly thick  starch.  If  the  curtains  are  white,  the  starch  should 
be  blued;  if  cream  color,  strong  coffee  should  be  added  to  it. 
Pin  each  point  carefully  to  the  drying  frame  and  set  in  the 
air  to  dry.  Two  or  three  curtains  may  be  dried  at  the  same 
time  on  one  frame.  If  you  have  no  frame,  lay  clean  sheets 
over  the  floor  of  an  unused  room,  stretch  the  curtains  into 
shape,  square  and  true,  and  pin  each  point  so  that  it  will 
not  slip.  If  points  are  out  of  shape  when  dry,  they  may  be 
dampened  with  a  cloth  and  ironed. 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW 


AN  INITIAL  FINE  OF  25  CENTS 

WILL  BE  ASSESSED  FOR  FAILURE  TO  RETURN 
THIS  BOOK  ON  THE  DATE  DUE.  THE  PENALTY 
WILL  INCREASE  TO  SO  CENTS  ON  THE  FOURTH 
DAY  AND  TO  $1.OO  ON  THE  SEVENTH  DAY 
OVERDUE. 


"AY  04 


v  IW  JM 


1956 


LD  21-100m-8,'34 


YB 


cosaoiitoa 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


